Skintelligence is understanding what makes your skin behave in the way it does and knowing how to restore balance-is the key to healthy, radiant skin.
Unlike other organs, the skin is visible-a map of your life, complete with freckles, spider veins, open pores, spots, scars, and laughter lines. Because it's exposed to the sun, cold, wind, and pollutants, the signs of stress will soon show if you don't take care of it. While the condition of the skin is undeniably affected by the external environment, diet, lifestyle, hormonal changes, and the passage of time also play a part in its behavior at any give time.
It is important to be able to recognize your skin's tendencies and characteristics so that you can treat it accordingly and restore balance, but accept that these won't remain constant. Skin may be drier during the winter than the summer, and may be prone to oiliness and breakouts at different times of the month or because of change of diet or lifestyle. Smoking, too much alcohol, and too little sleep can all have a negative impact on the skin's health, making it look dull and dehydrated, while stress can trigger sensitivity and lead to outbreaks of exzema and psoriasis.
Information provided by: Jemma Kidd, Make-up Masterclass-the beauty bible of professional techniques and warable looks.
Recent Posts
Monday, December 27, 2010
Thursday, December 9, 2010
Beauty Mistakes That Age You
Mistake #1: Using an under eye cream that contains fragrance and certain preservatives.
Instead: use eye creams that do not contain common irritants and ingredients that could cause breakouts (including lanolin, SD alcohol, mineral oil, artificial colors and fragrances; also try applying cold compress for puffiness.
Mistake #2: Washing your face before your hair in the shower.
Instead: Wash your hair before washing your face because chemicals and oils from your hair products can drip down on your face and clog pores.
Mistake #3: Not moisturizing the neck.
Instead: Make sure to moisturize your neck as well as your face. Neck skin is thinner than the skin on your face. Look for creams with Vitamin A.
--Information provided by the Dr. Oz Show.
Super Foods for Super Beauty
Last year a reported $2.5 billion was spent on cosmetics and skin care products; $10 billion was spent on cosmetic procedures.
Natural beauty boosters can be found in your own home or at the grocery store.
1) What food protects the skin from the sun?
Answer: Pink grapefruit- contains lycopene that helps protect the skin from sun damage. To benefit, eat 1/2 a grapefruit once a week.
2) What food helps prevent wrinkles?
Answer: Red peppers-"natural botox" is very rich in Vitamin C. Has 2x the amount of Vitamin C as an orange. To benefit, eat 1/4 cup a day.
3) What food helps prevent acne?
Answer: Collard greens-rich in Vitamin A it helps the skin naturally exfoliate itself and works to prevent blemish formation. Vitamin A is said to be the most successful skin remedy. To benefit, eat 1/2 cup cooked once a week. Can use in salads or as a side dish.
4) What food helps prevent dry skin?
Answer: Trout-rich in Omega 3 fatty acids. To benefit, eat 1-2x/week.
5) What food helps reduce redness and inflamation?
Answer: Capers-contain a natural phytonutrient called Quercetin. This acts as a natural antihistamine and has anti-inflamatory benefits. To benefit, eat 1 tbs 2x/week.
--Information provided by the Dr. Oz Show.
Natural beauty boosters can be found in your own home or at the grocery store.
1) What food protects the skin from the sun?
Answer: Pink grapefruit- contains lycopene that helps protect the skin from sun damage. To benefit, eat 1/2 a grapefruit once a week.
2) What food helps prevent wrinkles?
Answer: Red peppers-"natural botox" is very rich in Vitamin C. Has 2x the amount of Vitamin C as an orange. To benefit, eat 1/4 cup a day.
3) What food helps prevent acne?
Answer: Collard greens-rich in Vitamin A it helps the skin naturally exfoliate itself and works to prevent blemish formation. Vitamin A is said to be the most successful skin remedy. To benefit, eat 1/2 cup cooked once a week. Can use in salads or as a side dish.
4) What food helps prevent dry skin?
Answer: Trout-rich in Omega 3 fatty acids. To benefit, eat 1-2x/week.
5) What food helps reduce redness and inflamation?
Answer: Capers-contain a natural phytonutrient called Quercetin. This acts as a natural antihistamine and has anti-inflamatory benefits. To benefit, eat 1 tbs 2x/week.
--Information provided by the Dr. Oz Show.
Tuesday, September 14, 2010
Octobooo Special
Current clients: refer a friend and your friend receives 10% off their first visit with me. In return for your awesomeness you will earn a $15 Feroche gift certificate to use on any service or product for that first referral. Each additional referral will earn you 25% off any service.
The same thing will apply for any new client who comes in and recieves a service. If you tell your friend(s), both of you take advantage of the Octobooo Special too. Yeah!!!
*Referred person(s) must live locally and be a potential repeat client. Certificate or discount will be given after referred person(s) receives service.*
I hope your able to take advantage of....... only the best promotion I have had all year!!!
Saturday, September 11, 2010
Pictures of Feroche Esthetics Studio
Hi my name is Bethany. I am the owner/skin therapist at Feroche Esthetics.
Feroche Esthetics is located inside Salon Walk on 168th and W Center Rd in the Shops of Legacy.
Feroche Esthetics is located in studio 116.
What you see when you walk into Salon Walk.
I use Escential wax for my waxing services.
I provide services using Dermalogica skin care products. Dermalogica is available for purchase after a complimentary face mapping analysis so I can recommend product(s) appropriate for your skin's needs.
Certificate for completing the Business Management Entrepreneurship program at Metropolitan Community College (MCC).
Specialist diploma in Entrepreneurship from MCC.
September Special
Refer a friend and earn a $15 Feroche gift certificate to use on any service or product.
*Referred person(s) must live locally and be a potential repeat client. Limit one per client. Each additional referral, referring client will receive 25% off any service. Certificate or discount will be given after referred person(s) receives service.*
Thursday, August 26, 2010
August Special
*Refer a friend and receive a complimentary eyebrow wax. Yeah!!!!*
New Refer a Friend referral cards!!! Cards will be given to clients to share with friends and family. When the referred friend or family member visits Feroche, they will receive $5 savings on a Dermalogica product purchase. In return you also receive a $5 credit on a Dermalogica purchase. Win-win!!!
Don’t forget, Dermalogica Gift Certificates are available for purchase at Feroche. These certificates may be used on services and for Dermalogica product purchase. Give the gift of touch.
*Referred person(s) must be a potential and local repeat client. Limit one per client for this month. Each additional referral, referring client will receive 25% off any service.
New Refer a Friend referral cards!!! Cards will be given to clients to share with friends and family. When the referred friend or family member visits Feroche, they will receive $5 savings on a Dermalogica product purchase. In return you also receive a $5 credit on a Dermalogica purchase. Win-win!!!
Don’t forget, Dermalogica Gift Certificates are available for purchase at Feroche. These certificates may be used on services and for Dermalogica product purchase. Give the gift of touch.
*Referred person(s) must be a potential and local repeat client. Limit one per client for this month. Each additional referral, referring client will receive 25% off any service.
The Shelf Life of Makeup: How Long Is Too Long?
By Alexis Collado (Found on Parade.com)
One of the problems of being a beauty product connoisseur is the excess of bottles and tubes and sticks and jars lying around my house. I typically use my favorites up right away, but other products that I use only on occasion tend to linger in the back of my bathroom drawers and on my cabinet shelves for quite a while. With summer coming to an end, I'm thinking it may be time for some of these items to take a trip to beauty product heaven. But which ones can I keep and which ones should I toss?
I checked in with Director of Global Education for The International Dermal Institute (IDI), Annet King, who has a wealth of knowledge when it comes to the shelf life of skin care and beauty products. IDI researches and develops Dermalogica skin care products, currently sold in 50+ countries and at select skin treatment centers.
Of course, many different brands and different types of products will last longer than others. And a product's shelf life will differ greatly depending on the delivery system of the product (tubes, jars, sticks, etc.), ingredients used, the preservative system used and whether the product is applied directly to the skin. But in my opinion, it's better to be safe than sorry when it comes to contaminated cosmetics. Here are some helpful recommendations from King – on how long is too long – for common beauty products on your shelves.
MAKEUP
Foundation, lipstick, cream blush and cream eye shadow 4-6 months
Gel or liquid mascara and eyeliner 3-4 months
Eyeliner, brow pencils and lip pencils 8-12 months
Lip gloss 3 months
Powder blush, eye shadow and foundations 6 months
Nail polish 8-12 months
Primers, eye firmers, barrier moisturizers and other silicone-based products 12 months
Annet recommends washing makeup brushes weekly in warm water with gel cleanser and throwing away sponge applicators on a weekly basis.
SKINCARE PRODUCTS
Creamy products like cleansers, masques and moisturizers and eye creams 4-6 months
Gel products like cleansers, masques, acne treatments and eye gels 6 months
Water based toners (*Keep in the refrigerator for added shelf life) 4-6 months
Creamy or gel scrubs and shower gels 4 months
Serums and boosters 4-6 months
Sunscreens expiration date is typically around two years, but Annet recommends replacing sunscreen every year.
Simple observations can easily help determine the shelf life of cosmetic products as well. Look for any noticeable changes, like differences in odor, color or separation issues. "An off-odor can indicate rancidity, or spoilage due to microbial contamination," King says.
When it comes to skincare products, be conscious of hygienic packaging and product dose delivery. Products that come in tubes and pumps, compared to jars and tubs, will have longer shelf lives. Many recognizable brand products are formulated to last more than two years after opening. "Most skin care products are consumed quickly if you use them twice per day, so ideally follow these rules: Use them up within six months, keep in a cool dark place and store some products in the fridge for extra shelf life," King recommends.
One of the problems of being a beauty product connoisseur is the excess of bottles and tubes and sticks and jars lying around my house. I typically use my favorites up right away, but other products that I use only on occasion tend to linger in the back of my bathroom drawers and on my cabinet shelves for quite a while. With summer coming to an end, I'm thinking it may be time for some of these items to take a trip to beauty product heaven. But which ones can I keep and which ones should I toss?
I checked in with Director of Global Education for The International Dermal Institute (IDI), Annet King, who has a wealth of knowledge when it comes to the shelf life of skin care and beauty products. IDI researches and develops Dermalogica skin care products, currently sold in 50+ countries and at select skin treatment centers.
Of course, many different brands and different types of products will last longer than others. And a product's shelf life will differ greatly depending on the delivery system of the product (tubes, jars, sticks, etc.), ingredients used, the preservative system used and whether the product is applied directly to the skin. But in my opinion, it's better to be safe than sorry when it comes to contaminated cosmetics. Here are some helpful recommendations from King – on how long is too long – for common beauty products on your shelves.
MAKEUP
Foundation, lipstick, cream blush and cream eye shadow 4-6 months
Gel or liquid mascara and eyeliner 3-4 months
Eyeliner, brow pencils and lip pencils 8-12 months
Lip gloss 3 months
Powder blush, eye shadow and foundations 6 months
Nail polish 8-12 months
Primers, eye firmers, barrier moisturizers and other silicone-based products 12 months
Annet recommends washing makeup brushes weekly in warm water with gel cleanser and throwing away sponge applicators on a weekly basis.
SKINCARE PRODUCTS
Creamy products like cleansers, masques and moisturizers and eye creams 4-6 months
Gel products like cleansers, masques, acne treatments and eye gels 6 months
Water based toners (*Keep in the refrigerator for added shelf life) 4-6 months
Creamy or gel scrubs and shower gels 4 months
Serums and boosters 4-6 months
Sunscreens expiration date is typically around two years, but Annet recommends replacing sunscreen every year.
Simple observations can easily help determine the shelf life of cosmetic products as well. Look for any noticeable changes, like differences in odor, color or separation issues. "An off-odor can indicate rancidity, or spoilage due to microbial contamination," King says.
When it comes to skincare products, be conscious of hygienic packaging and product dose delivery. Products that come in tubes and pumps, compared to jars and tubs, will have longer shelf lives. Many recognizable brand products are formulated to last more than two years after opening. "Most skin care products are consumed quickly if you use them twice per day, so ideally follow these rules: Use them up within six months, keep in a cool dark place and store some products in the fridge for extra shelf life," King recommends.
Hisory of Grooming and Skin Care Facts, Part 1
Information provided by Milady Standard Fundamentals for Estheticians
o Ancient peoples around the world used coloring matter on their hair, skin, and nails and practiced tattooing. Pigments were made from berries, tree bark, minerals, insects, nuts, herbs, leaves, and other materials. Many of these colors are still used today.
o The earliest use of cosmetics has been traced to the ancient Egyptians, who invented a number of cosmetic, herbal, and fragrance preparations for use in their personal grooming regimens as well as in religious ceremonies and burial rites. Cleopatra, queen of Egypt (51 B.C.E.), was fond of bath oils, milk baths, and fragrances. She also used clay from the Nile River, mixed with herbs and essential oils, as a facial treatment.
o Around 200 C.E., Galen, a Greek physician, mixed rose water, beeswax, and olive oil together and created the first modern cosmetic compound: cold cream.
o Roman women made lavish use of fragrances and cosmetics. Facials made of milk and bread and sometimes fine wine were popular. Other facials were made of corn, flour and milk, and flour mixed with fresh butter. The Romans also developed methods of bleaching and dyeing the hair.
o Ancient peoples around the world used coloring matter on their hair, skin, and nails and practiced tattooing. Pigments were made from berries, tree bark, minerals, insects, nuts, herbs, leaves, and other materials. Many of these colors are still used today.
o The earliest use of cosmetics has been traced to the ancient Egyptians, who invented a number of cosmetic, herbal, and fragrance preparations for use in their personal grooming regimens as well as in religious ceremonies and burial rites. Cleopatra, queen of Egypt (51 B.C.E.), was fond of bath oils, milk baths, and fragrances. She also used clay from the Nile River, mixed with herbs and essential oils, as a facial treatment.
o Around 200 C.E., Galen, a Greek physician, mixed rose water, beeswax, and olive oil together and created the first modern cosmetic compound: cold cream.
o Roman women made lavish use of fragrances and cosmetics. Facials made of milk and bread and sometimes fine wine were popular. Other facials were made of corn, flour and milk, and flour mixed with fresh butter. The Romans also developed methods of bleaching and dyeing the hair.
Did You Know?
o Sunscreen was originally developed for the Navy in order to protect the sailors against burning. Today, people just do not apply any or enough. The amount of sunscreen needed to properly apply to the face is equal to a teaspoon and a shot glass for the whole body. It is never too soon or too late to use sunscreen!
o The use of toner was initially designed to remove residue left by cold cream or cleansers. That is the cleansers job! Dermalogica toners are not used to remove residue left from cleanser, it is the first step in moisturizing. If you still feel unclean after your first cleanse, try double cleansing (and/or Dermalogica’s PreCleanse followed by a recommended Dermalogica cleanser).
o The word hygiene is derived from the Greek goddess Hygeia, the goddess of health.
o The use of toner was initially designed to remove residue left by cold cream or cleansers. That is the cleansers job! Dermalogica toners are not used to remove residue left from cleanser, it is the first step in moisturizing. If you still feel unclean after your first cleanse, try double cleansing (and/or Dermalogica’s PreCleanse followed by a recommended Dermalogica cleanser).
o The word hygiene is derived from the Greek goddess Hygeia, the goddess of health.
Thursday, May 20, 2010
Results of Dermalogica's Ask the Experts Session
Q: I am a skin therapist and owner of Feroche Esthetics in Omaha, NE. First question: I had a new client last week come in for face wax. During the consultation she told me her dermatologist had told her to use hydrogen peroxide on her face. She doesn't use cleanser or moisturizer just hydrogen peroxide. She has sensitized skin and dry flaking. Why would he recommend this?
A: While we can't speak on behalf of any dermatologists, my guess is that he's recommending Hydrogen Peroxide because it's a strong oxidant that may kill any bacteria that is causing mild acne. It may also be oxidizing the lipids that are part of the protective lipid layer that prevents dehydration of the skin. I definitely recommend you put her on a mild cleanser, not Hydrogen peroxide.
Q: Second question: recently I read an article on Dr. Oz Show.com on tanning. In this article he frowns against spray tanning to microparticles that can be inhaled, as well as, stating to avoid self tanners because the browning ingredients may damage the DNA in skin cells. Is this true of DHA? What do you think?
A: Hi Bethany, self tanners use an active agent called dihydroxyacetone (DHA). They react with amino acids in the skin to make a brown coloration. There is some validity to the concern of spray tanning if you're not protecting your mouth or nasal passages. However, there are no epidemiological studies linking DHA exposure and cancer risk. There are some studies showing mutagenic activity in some bacterial strains, which is probably where Dr. Oz is getting his info. ~Dr. C at IDI
Q: Is there such a thing as addiction to tanning?
A: Hi Theresa, yes, there have been studies linking tanning and addiction. Scientists have found that UV increases a gene called p53, which triggers tanning and also increases endorphins. Endorphins are the 'feel good' genes, which can lead to addiction. The more you feel good after a tanning session, the more you're likely to do it. ~Dr. Claudia at IDI
Q: I have a client that I'm currently treating - she is in her late 20's, normal/oily skin, very dull, hormonal acne. Currently I am doing microderm treatments and trying to treat the acne, yet give her a glowy complexion. Many acne products are drying and I'm having a difficult time finding the right combination. Any suggestions? Thank you!
A: When dealing with inflamed acne, there are better choices to use to treat her hormonal acne than microdermabrasion which can be a strong physical exfoliant for an inflamed condition. A better choice is enzymes and gentle hydroxy acids like lactic acid. Be sure to look for adult acne preparations like salicylic acid as well.
Q: What are the ingredients in soap? I want to tell my clients what to look for so they buy soap free products. Thanks.
A: Hi Katie, soap has residual alkalines in it with a PH of about 9 and the skin's natural pH is about 4-6 so the alkalinity strips the natural barrier from the skin. We suggest using a cleanser or cleansing bar known as syndets that have non-alkaline cleansing agents gentle enough for the skin. ~Dr. C at IDI
Q: I find it very difficult to treat my clients with severe hyper-pigmentation, what do you recommend?
A: Firstly, find the cause and eliminate where possible. Exfoliation with lactic acid is a great starting point and remember that clients should wear sunscreen daily! A course of treatments is essential and should include electrical equipment that will enhance product penetration such as galvanic iontophoresis or specific iontophoresis (See more microcurrent). Avoid hydroquinone as it safety has come under scrutiny and there is evidence that it may be toxic and a potential carcinogen which is why it is already banned in many countries. Using ingredients that brighten the skin and target the melanin production (such as oligopeptide-34) are crucial.
Q: I cannot get rid of my micocomedones. I am using JaneIredale Makeup. I am using daily micro (on a daily basis) + overnight clearning gel for weeks now no results. What else should I be trying?
A: Try a mild, cream-based, enzymatic exfoliant that uses Lactic Acid and Salicylic Acid to slough off dead skin cells, and sulfur to clear excess oil and congestion in the follicle.
Q: What are your thoughts on the product Cetaphil? And why? I have heard different opinions. I know a lot of dermatologists recommend it.
A: Hi Tammy, cetaphil is a basic, but not a results oriented cleanser.
Q: What is an organic sunscreen and is it better?
A: Hi Cecille, organic sunscreens are chemical sunscreens that absorb UV energy and dissipate it as heat. The name organic does not mean the same as it does when associated with an organic plant extract (like what you buy at whole foods). As far as better- if you have sensitive skin non-organic (or physical) sunscreens are better. Only blends of chemical suncreens will provide broad-spectrum, not individual chemical sunscreens. ~Dr. C
Q: I am finding many of my clients are having severe milia problems, especially older women that are using all day wear makeup, their dermatologists want to cut them out, but I recommend exfoliation, what would you recommend for treating this and effectively preventing them?
A: start by asking your client if they are using a product, cosmetic or skin care, that contains mineral oil. This is often the source of the problem, recommend your client start with a gentle daily exfoliation after make-up removal, then 2-3x/week, recommend an exfoliating mask with enzymes to remove dead cells and debris that can clog pores. The long lasting make-up is probably the culprit to the clog pores.
Q: I keep hearing the word nanotechnology, what is it?
A: Hi Michele, nanotechnology refers to substances that are incredibly small in size. When something is within the nanotechnology scale it has more surface area and is therefore more reactive. The properties of a substance change when they are micronized. The most common form of nanotechnology, incidentally perfectly safe to use, is when zinc oxide and titanium dioxide particles are made very translucent in physical sunscreens. ~Dr. C
Q: I have a client who recently had a sun spot pop up on her face. She is currently using skin resufacing cleanser, antioxidant hydramist, dynamic skin recovry, and power rich. I suggested the chroma white system along with a series of skin brightening treatments. She wants to wait till the fall to do it, but I was wondering if I should add the c-12 concentrate to her regimen?
A: Dynamic skin recovery may not be giving her enough coverage if she is not applying an adequeate amount of 1 teaspoon of it, or she can supplement it with a booster sunscreen. I do advise you start the client on C-12 concentrate now--to prevent further development of the pigmentation, but if she anticipates sun exposure throughout the summer, than yes, have her start the full regimen come fall.
Q: Hi! How do I treat dark circles under my client’s eyes?
A: Dark circles are caused by hyperpigmentation and deoxygenated blood vessels. Genetics also play a role. As skin therapists we can only treat dark circles due to hyperpigmentation with ingredients such as: retinol, licorice and niacinamide.
Q: What should I do with my large pores?
A: With regards to reducing your pore size, unfortunately that is not possible. The best way to reduce the appearance of large pores is to exfoliate with enzymes and hydroxy acids. It's also beneficial to use Clay based cleansers and masques to keep excess oil and debris from clogging the follicle causing the enlarged appearance.
Q: I have been hearing a lot lately about parabens - are they safe?
A: Absolutely. Many studies verify the efficacy and safety of this group of preservatives. Preservatives are essential to maintain the safety of products. For more information please read: http://www.cfsan.fda.gov/~dms/cos-para.html Also, under the European Cosmetics Regulations it is deemed safe.
Q: What is your insight on using (clients) the tear drop buff puff sponges to exfoliate the skin? It seems customers attest to using these.
A: The Buff Puff pads are too abrasive to use as a cleansing method of removing product and can harvest bacteria over time.
Q: What ingredients are a No No to use on Pregnant women?
A: You should always advise your client to consult with their physician. As a skin therapist, we can advise to avoid Vitamin A and Salycilic Acid.
Q: I also heard we should avoid the additives because the essential oils can be absorbed into the blood stream and is not good if they are breastfeeding...is this correct?
A: Yes Bethany, essential oils are known to be absorbed into the blood stream, so probably best to avoid use on clients who are either pregnant or breast feeding. But again, always advise they check with their physician.
Q: What is the next big thing with skincare that you can see on the horizon? What way is the industry going?
A: Hi Matt, from a science perspective, the field seems to be getting more and more sophisticated. The area of neurocosmetics also seem to be on the increase. Using technology to increase permeability for actives that target specific concerns are also growing. ~Dr. C
Q: How often can you do a series of peels safely?
A: Hi Cassie, that is a tough question to answer, as it really depends on the formulation and the potency of a particular exfoliant product. It also will vary dependent on the client's skin and what they're currently using at home. Peels can typically be performed in a series, spaced 7-10 days apart to achieve results, however, other peels should only be performed at 4 week intervals. We suggest to check with the product manufacturer for their recommendation.
And it is also important to do a thorough consultation prior to performing any peels, to identify any contraindications, such as if the client is undergoing laser treatment with a physician.
Q: Why do dermatologists prescribe acne medication for rosacea?
A: Hi Helen, good question! Firstly, Acne and rosacea are different skin conditions that have one important thing in common: inflammation. Doxycycline is an oral drug prescribed by dermatologists which has anti-inflammatory properties that alleviate symptoms in rosacea. ~Dr. Claudia at IDI
Q: Hi! What’s the difference between chemical and physical sunscreens, and can you give me specific ingredient examples?
A: Physical sunscreen ingredients (such as zinc oxide and titanium dioxide) reflect UVA and UVB rays, whereas chemical sunscreens absorb UVA/UVB rays lowering the energy level and releasing energy as heat – such as avobenzone (also known as Parsol 1789), oxybenzone and octocrylene.
Q: Hi Hannah! My 13 year old daughter has had problems with her skin..Im wondering if birth control will work to get her hormones on track?? Single Dad here...HELP!!!
A: Hi Ruben, we suggest you speak with your physician regarding this, but we can tell you that yes, birth control pills can regulate hormones, however, we do not recommend using this medication for this reason, without consulting with your physician.
A: While we can't speak on behalf of any dermatologists, my guess is that he's recommending Hydrogen Peroxide because it's a strong oxidant that may kill any bacteria that is causing mild acne. It may also be oxidizing the lipids that are part of the protective lipid layer that prevents dehydration of the skin. I definitely recommend you put her on a mild cleanser, not Hydrogen peroxide.
Q: Second question: recently I read an article on Dr. Oz Show.com on tanning. In this article he frowns against spray tanning to microparticles that can be inhaled, as well as, stating to avoid self tanners because the browning ingredients may damage the DNA in skin cells. Is this true of DHA? What do you think?
A: Hi Bethany, self tanners use an active agent called dihydroxyacetone (DHA). They react with amino acids in the skin to make a brown coloration. There is some validity to the concern of spray tanning if you're not protecting your mouth or nasal passages. However, there are no epidemiological studies linking DHA exposure and cancer risk. There are some studies showing mutagenic activity in some bacterial strains, which is probably where Dr. Oz is getting his info. ~Dr. C at IDI
Q: Is there such a thing as addiction to tanning?
A: Hi Theresa, yes, there have been studies linking tanning and addiction. Scientists have found that UV increases a gene called p53, which triggers tanning and also increases endorphins. Endorphins are the 'feel good' genes, which can lead to addiction. The more you feel good after a tanning session, the more you're likely to do it. ~Dr. Claudia at IDI
Q: I have a client that I'm currently treating - she is in her late 20's, normal/oily skin, very dull, hormonal acne. Currently I am doing microderm treatments and trying to treat the acne, yet give her a glowy complexion. Many acne products are drying and I'm having a difficult time finding the right combination. Any suggestions? Thank you!
A: When dealing with inflamed acne, there are better choices to use to treat her hormonal acne than microdermabrasion which can be a strong physical exfoliant for an inflamed condition. A better choice is enzymes and gentle hydroxy acids like lactic acid. Be sure to look for adult acne preparations like salicylic acid as well.
Q: What are the ingredients in soap? I want to tell my clients what to look for so they buy soap free products. Thanks.
A: Hi Katie, soap has residual alkalines in it with a PH of about 9 and the skin's natural pH is about 4-6 so the alkalinity strips the natural barrier from the skin. We suggest using a cleanser or cleansing bar known as syndets that have non-alkaline cleansing agents gentle enough for the skin. ~Dr. C at IDI
Q: I find it very difficult to treat my clients with severe hyper-pigmentation, what do you recommend?
A: Firstly, find the cause and eliminate where possible. Exfoliation with lactic acid is a great starting point and remember that clients should wear sunscreen daily! A course of treatments is essential and should include electrical equipment that will enhance product penetration such as galvanic iontophoresis or specific iontophoresis (See more microcurrent). Avoid hydroquinone as it safety has come under scrutiny and there is evidence that it may be toxic and a potential carcinogen which is why it is already banned in many countries. Using ingredients that brighten the skin and target the melanin production (such as oligopeptide-34) are crucial.
Q: I cannot get rid of my micocomedones. I am using JaneIredale Makeup. I am using daily micro (on a daily basis) + overnight clearning gel for weeks now no results. What else should I be trying?
A: Try a mild, cream-based, enzymatic exfoliant that uses Lactic Acid and Salicylic Acid to slough off dead skin cells, and sulfur to clear excess oil and congestion in the follicle.
Q: What are your thoughts on the product Cetaphil? And why? I have heard different opinions. I know a lot of dermatologists recommend it.
A: Hi Tammy, cetaphil is a basic, but not a results oriented cleanser.
Q: What is an organic sunscreen and is it better?
A: Hi Cecille, organic sunscreens are chemical sunscreens that absorb UV energy and dissipate it as heat. The name organic does not mean the same as it does when associated with an organic plant extract (like what you buy at whole foods). As far as better- if you have sensitive skin non-organic (or physical) sunscreens are better. Only blends of chemical suncreens will provide broad-spectrum, not individual chemical sunscreens. ~Dr. C
Q: I am finding many of my clients are having severe milia problems, especially older women that are using all day wear makeup, their dermatologists want to cut them out, but I recommend exfoliation, what would you recommend for treating this and effectively preventing them?
A: start by asking your client if they are using a product, cosmetic or skin care, that contains mineral oil. This is often the source of the problem, recommend your client start with a gentle daily exfoliation after make-up removal, then 2-3x/week, recommend an exfoliating mask with enzymes to remove dead cells and debris that can clog pores. The long lasting make-up is probably the culprit to the clog pores.
Q: I keep hearing the word nanotechnology, what is it?
A: Hi Michele, nanotechnology refers to substances that are incredibly small in size. When something is within the nanotechnology scale it has more surface area and is therefore more reactive. The properties of a substance change when they are micronized. The most common form of nanotechnology, incidentally perfectly safe to use, is when zinc oxide and titanium dioxide particles are made very translucent in physical sunscreens. ~Dr. C
Q: I have a client who recently had a sun spot pop up on her face. She is currently using skin resufacing cleanser, antioxidant hydramist, dynamic skin recovry, and power rich. I suggested the chroma white system along with a series of skin brightening treatments. She wants to wait till the fall to do it, but I was wondering if I should add the c-12 concentrate to her regimen?
A: Dynamic skin recovery may not be giving her enough coverage if she is not applying an adequeate amount of 1 teaspoon of it, or she can supplement it with a booster sunscreen. I do advise you start the client on C-12 concentrate now--to prevent further development of the pigmentation, but if she anticipates sun exposure throughout the summer, than yes, have her start the full regimen come fall.
Q: Hi! How do I treat dark circles under my client’s eyes?
A: Dark circles are caused by hyperpigmentation and deoxygenated blood vessels. Genetics also play a role. As skin therapists we can only treat dark circles due to hyperpigmentation with ingredients such as: retinol, licorice and niacinamide.
Q: What should I do with my large pores?
A: With regards to reducing your pore size, unfortunately that is not possible. The best way to reduce the appearance of large pores is to exfoliate with enzymes and hydroxy acids. It's also beneficial to use Clay based cleansers and masques to keep excess oil and debris from clogging the follicle causing the enlarged appearance.
Q: I have been hearing a lot lately about parabens - are they safe?
A: Absolutely. Many studies verify the efficacy and safety of this group of preservatives. Preservatives are essential to maintain the safety of products. For more information please read: http://www.cfsan.fda.gov/~dms/cos-para.html Also, under the European Cosmetics Regulations it is deemed safe.
Q: What is your insight on using (clients) the tear drop buff puff sponges to exfoliate the skin? It seems customers attest to using these.
A: The Buff Puff pads are too abrasive to use as a cleansing method of removing product and can harvest bacteria over time.
Q: What ingredients are a No No to use on Pregnant women?
A: You should always advise your client to consult with their physician. As a skin therapist, we can advise to avoid Vitamin A and Salycilic Acid.
Q: I also heard we should avoid the additives because the essential oils can be absorbed into the blood stream and is not good if they are breastfeeding...is this correct?
A: Yes Bethany, essential oils are known to be absorbed into the blood stream, so probably best to avoid use on clients who are either pregnant or breast feeding. But again, always advise they check with their physician.
Q: What is the next big thing with skincare that you can see on the horizon? What way is the industry going?
A: Hi Matt, from a science perspective, the field seems to be getting more and more sophisticated. The area of neurocosmetics also seem to be on the increase. Using technology to increase permeability for actives that target specific concerns are also growing. ~Dr. C
Q: How often can you do a series of peels safely?
A: Hi Cassie, that is a tough question to answer, as it really depends on the formulation and the potency of a particular exfoliant product. It also will vary dependent on the client's skin and what they're currently using at home. Peels can typically be performed in a series, spaced 7-10 days apart to achieve results, however, other peels should only be performed at 4 week intervals. We suggest to check with the product manufacturer for their recommendation.
And it is also important to do a thorough consultation prior to performing any peels, to identify any contraindications, such as if the client is undergoing laser treatment with a physician.
Q: Why do dermatologists prescribe acne medication for rosacea?
A: Hi Helen, good question! Firstly, Acne and rosacea are different skin conditions that have one important thing in common: inflammation. Doxycycline is an oral drug prescribed by dermatologists which has anti-inflammatory properties that alleviate symptoms in rosacea. ~Dr. Claudia at IDI
Q: Hi! What’s the difference between chemical and physical sunscreens, and can you give me specific ingredient examples?
A: Physical sunscreen ingredients (such as zinc oxide and titanium dioxide) reflect UVA and UVB rays, whereas chemical sunscreens absorb UVA/UVB rays lowering the energy level and releasing energy as heat – such as avobenzone (also known as Parsol 1789), oxybenzone and octocrylene.
Q: Hi Hannah! My 13 year old daughter has had problems with her skin..Im wondering if birth control will work to get her hormones on track?? Single Dad here...HELP!!!
A: Hi Ruben, we suggest you speak with your physician regarding this, but we can tell you that yes, birth control pills can regulate hormones, however, we do not recommend using this medication for this reason, without consulting with your physician.
Monday, May 3, 2010
May's Special
Refer a friend and receive a complimentary Eco-fin hand or foot treatment.
Eco-fin is a great natural, petroleum-free alternative to paraffin. Treatments are 100% disposable and biodegradable. Eco-fin is a rich blend of palm, soy, jojoba and organic coconut oils, shea butter, vitamin E and essential oils. With heat, it delivers rich moisturizers that leave the skin soft and supple.
Eco-fin is a great natural, petroleum-free alternative to paraffin. Treatments are 100% disposable and biodegradable. Eco-fin is a rich blend of palm, soy, jojoba and organic coconut oils, shea butter, vitamin E and essential oils. With heat, it delivers rich moisturizers that leave the skin soft and supple.
Mexican Sunburn Remedy
There are many sunburn remedies out there. Most of them include cool compress, moisturizer or aloe and an anti-inflammatory. Recently, a friend of mine got back from a trip to Cancun with her family. During this trip she was sunburned pretty badly (busy swimming with the dolphins). She told me how the locals had a sunburn remedy. She tried it and found that it relieved the burn and she hardly had any peeling. You will need:
¼ cup of white vinegar
¼ cup of lime juice (fresh squeezed)
1 teaspoon of salt
Combine vinegar, fresh lime juice and salt. Using soft cotton balls dip in vinegar mixture then squeeze out the excess back into the cup. Lightly, but thoroughly, apply to sunburned area. Leave on overnight. However, wash off all vinegar mixture before exposing skin to sunlight or the lime juice will cause the skin to burn and blacken in the sunlight.
¼ cup of white vinegar
¼ cup of lime juice (fresh squeezed)
1 teaspoon of salt
Combine vinegar, fresh lime juice and salt. Using soft cotton balls dip in vinegar mixture then squeeze out the excess back into the cup. Lightly, but thoroughly, apply to sunburned area. Leave on overnight. However, wash off all vinegar mixture before exposing skin to sunlight or the lime juice will cause the skin to burn and blacken in the sunlight.
Why Sunscreen Is Important
80 to 85 percent of our aging is caused by the rays of the sun. Daily sunscreen is imperative for healthy skin. Many of you know how passionate I am about recommending sunscreen to protect the skin from ultraviolet (UV) rays. I stress this because sun exposure leads not only to skin cancer, but to aging, hyperpigmentation, capillary damage, free radical damage, collagen and elastin deterioration and a repressed immune system.
Over one million new cases of skin cancer are diagnosed every year. Even more staggering is the fact that one in five Americans will develop skin cancer, and 90% of these cancers will be the result of exposure to UV radiation from the sun and/or tanning beds. Reported cases has more than doubled in the past 20 years and over 2,000 people die from skin cancer each year in the United Kingdom. This globally expansive issue reinforces the belief that the best defense is to limit daylight exposure and protect skin with sunscreen at all times. Avoid exposure to the sun during peak hours, when UV exposure is highest. This is usually between 10 A.M. and 3 P.M.
UVA rays (the aging rays) are the longest rays in the spectrum, and they penetrate deeper into the skin. UVA rays are responsible for causing damage at the cellular level, making them responsible for most skin cancers and the cause of the signs of aging in the form of wrinkles and pigment spots. UVB rays (the burning rays) are shorter than UVA rays, and are responsible for the actual “burn” or “tan” response in skin. Both UVA and UVB rays can cause cancer, so wearing and SPF that shields skin against both (broad spectrum) is critical.
UV rays generate free radicals (molecules that have gained or lost and electron) that wreak havoc on cellular material. They are capable of altering not only the DNA (genetic material of all living cells) but may also affect membranes surrounding skin cells, destroy or alter enzymes and proteins required for cellular metabolism and affect amino acids (the building blocks of proteins). Free radicals can ultimately result in the formation of sun-induced skin cancers.
Fortunately, our bodies are constantly trying to repair the damage of this vicious free radical assault. While our body’s defense system is repairing damaged sites, our cells are releasing the by-products of this assault and repair process. The skin’s inflammatory response may be seen initially as erythema (redness of the skin) which results from dilation of blood vessels in the dermis as a response to the cell damage and repair process. Erythema generally appears two to six hours after exposure to daylight or tanning; the degree of redness is an indication of damage to the skin inflicted by the sun. Erythema is also used as a measure of the effectiveness of a sunscreen to absorb UVB rays and is measured by its sun protection factor (SPF). Factors affecting erythema include the amount of pigmentation in the skin, the ease of burning of the individual and the skin’s resistance to tanning.
Sunscreens work by absorbing damaging UV rays (chemical sunscreens) or by reflecting and scattering UV rays (physical sunscreens). Physical sunscreens (such as Titanium Dioxide and Zinc Oxide) have increased in popularity as consumers grow more concerned about the potential irritancy factor of chemical sunscreens. With this increase in popularity has also come a focus on improving the technology of these physical sunscreens.
The SPF represents the ability of a sunscreen to delay sun-induced burning or erythema. It is important to understand that, even though you may be using a sunscreen, some UVB rays will still penetrate through skin. For example, an SPF 2 product protects your skin from 50% of the UVB rays, so you can stay in the sun twice as long as you would be able to without protection. An SPF 8 blocks 87.5% of the rays, leaving 12.5% to penetrate and burn your skin. An SPF 15 blocks 93.3% of UVB rays. And finally, an SPF 30 blocks 96.6% of UVB rays.
When you use a sunscreen, make sure you apply an adequate amount to ensure you are getting the desired SPF. That’s generally about one teaspoon for the face and a full ounce (approximately 1/8 cup) for complete body coverage. Also, reapply sunscreen whenever you swim, exercise or sweat profusely.
What Happens to the Skin?
Skin without sunscreen
• Collagen and elastin breakdown, leading to premature aging.
• DNA damage caused by free radicals.
• Hypo-and hyperpigmentation
Generic over-the-counter sunscreen
• Skin is protected from UV rays but is still susceptible to free radical damage.
• Formulas are often comedogenic (clogs pores), contain artificial ingredients and fragrances, and feel uncomfortable on skin.
• Often do not contain ingredients that are beneficial to the health of skin or offer treatment for specific skin conditions.
Dermalogica Solar Defense System featuring UV Smart Booster Technology
• Skin is protected against UVA rays, UVB rays and free radical damage.
• Non-comedogenic formulas are free of artificial fragrance and color, and are more like skin treatment products with optimal feel and performance.
• State-of-the-art ingredients treat each skin condition, providing optimal skin care benefits.
Over one million new cases of skin cancer are diagnosed every year. Even more staggering is the fact that one in five Americans will develop skin cancer, and 90% of these cancers will be the result of exposure to UV radiation from the sun and/or tanning beds. Reported cases has more than doubled in the past 20 years and over 2,000 people die from skin cancer each year in the United Kingdom. This globally expansive issue reinforces the belief that the best defense is to limit daylight exposure and protect skin with sunscreen at all times. Avoid exposure to the sun during peak hours, when UV exposure is highest. This is usually between 10 A.M. and 3 P.M.
UVA rays (the aging rays) are the longest rays in the spectrum, and they penetrate deeper into the skin. UVA rays are responsible for causing damage at the cellular level, making them responsible for most skin cancers and the cause of the signs of aging in the form of wrinkles and pigment spots. UVB rays (the burning rays) are shorter than UVA rays, and are responsible for the actual “burn” or “tan” response in skin. Both UVA and UVB rays can cause cancer, so wearing and SPF that shields skin against both (broad spectrum) is critical.
UV rays generate free radicals (molecules that have gained or lost and electron) that wreak havoc on cellular material. They are capable of altering not only the DNA (genetic material of all living cells) but may also affect membranes surrounding skin cells, destroy or alter enzymes and proteins required for cellular metabolism and affect amino acids (the building blocks of proteins). Free radicals can ultimately result in the formation of sun-induced skin cancers.
Fortunately, our bodies are constantly trying to repair the damage of this vicious free radical assault. While our body’s defense system is repairing damaged sites, our cells are releasing the by-products of this assault and repair process. The skin’s inflammatory response may be seen initially as erythema (redness of the skin) which results from dilation of blood vessels in the dermis as a response to the cell damage and repair process. Erythema generally appears two to six hours after exposure to daylight or tanning; the degree of redness is an indication of damage to the skin inflicted by the sun. Erythema is also used as a measure of the effectiveness of a sunscreen to absorb UVB rays and is measured by its sun protection factor (SPF). Factors affecting erythema include the amount of pigmentation in the skin, the ease of burning of the individual and the skin’s resistance to tanning.
Sunscreens work by absorbing damaging UV rays (chemical sunscreens) or by reflecting and scattering UV rays (physical sunscreens). Physical sunscreens (such as Titanium Dioxide and Zinc Oxide) have increased in popularity as consumers grow more concerned about the potential irritancy factor of chemical sunscreens. With this increase in popularity has also come a focus on improving the technology of these physical sunscreens.
The SPF represents the ability of a sunscreen to delay sun-induced burning or erythema. It is important to understand that, even though you may be using a sunscreen, some UVB rays will still penetrate through skin. For example, an SPF 2 product protects your skin from 50% of the UVB rays, so you can stay in the sun twice as long as you would be able to without protection. An SPF 8 blocks 87.5% of the rays, leaving 12.5% to penetrate and burn your skin. An SPF 15 blocks 93.3% of UVB rays. And finally, an SPF 30 blocks 96.6% of UVB rays.
When you use a sunscreen, make sure you apply an adequate amount to ensure you are getting the desired SPF. That’s generally about one teaspoon for the face and a full ounce (approximately 1/8 cup) for complete body coverage. Also, reapply sunscreen whenever you swim, exercise or sweat profusely.
What Happens to the Skin?
Skin without sunscreen
• Collagen and elastin breakdown, leading to premature aging.
• DNA damage caused by free radicals.
• Hypo-and hyperpigmentation
Generic over-the-counter sunscreen
• Skin is protected from UV rays but is still susceptible to free radical damage.
• Formulas are often comedogenic (clogs pores), contain artificial ingredients and fragrances, and feel uncomfortable on skin.
• Often do not contain ingredients that are beneficial to the health of skin or offer treatment for specific skin conditions.
Dermalogica Solar Defense System featuring UV Smart Booster Technology
• Skin is protected against UVA rays, UVB rays and free radical damage.
• Non-comedogenic formulas are free of artificial fragrance and color, and are more like skin treatment products with optimal feel and performance.
• State-of-the-art ingredients treat each skin condition, providing optimal skin care benefits.
Wednesday, March 31, 2010
April's Special
Try Something New!!!
This month, try a service you have never experienced with Feroche Esthetics and receive 25% off that service. Call Bethany at 402-709-6245 to book your appointment. New menu options available online the beginning of the month.
Did You Know?
• Dermalogica does not contain: mineral oil, lanolin, artificial fragrance or colorants, SD alcohol or Formaldehyde.
• When reading ingredient labels, ingredients more than 1% must be listed in descending order.
• Don’t fall for the hype. There is no cure for wrinkles and no topical application of a product can provide you with the same results received from a cosmetic procedure performed by a physician such as Botox.
• After the age of 30, every year you lose 1% of collagen in your skin.
• When it comes to treating hyperpigmentation on the skin, the easiest to treat with faster results, is years of skin exposure. The hardest is hyperpigmentation caused by hormones.
• Acneic clients, who are genetically predisposed, have four to five times more build up of dead skin cells.
• Clients who have cold sores should only receive treatments two weeks after it goes away, otherwise it can come back with a vengeance.
• When skin is dehydrated, water escapes and bacteria goes in causing inflammation. So be sure to keep your skin hydrated.
• When reading ingredient labels, ingredients more than 1% must be listed in descending order.
• Don’t fall for the hype. There is no cure for wrinkles and no topical application of a product can provide you with the same results received from a cosmetic procedure performed by a physician such as Botox.
• After the age of 30, every year you lose 1% of collagen in your skin.
• When it comes to treating hyperpigmentation on the skin, the easiest to treat with faster results, is years of skin exposure. The hardest is hyperpigmentation caused by hormones.
• Acneic clients, who are genetically predisposed, have four to five times more build up of dead skin cells.
• Clients who have cold sores should only receive treatments two weeks after it goes away, otherwise it can come back with a vengeance.
• When skin is dehydrated, water escapes and bacteria goes in causing inflammation. So be sure to keep your skin hydrated.
What's In My Cabinet?
Feroche Esthetics Newsletter April 2010 Vol. #1, Issue #3 Excerpt
I receive many compliments on my skin. To figure out what works best for my skins needs I had to go to esthetics school and experiment with different products. My job is to make it much easier for you.
I have dry, sensitive and hormonally acneic skin. Through the years I have tried many different products from: Clean and Clear, Neutrogena, Oil of Olay, Avon, Estee Lauder, Clinique, BioElements, Murad and Dermalogica. Now I mainly use Dermalogica. It seems to be the only product line that works for my skin all of the time.
Depending on my daily skin needs, my at home regimen includes any one of these products:
Cleanser: Special Cleansing Gel (majority of the time), Clearing Skin Wash (during the hormonal times or when I fall asleep with my makeup on), Ultra-Calming Cleanser (when I have a reaction to something), Skin Resurfacing Cleanser (left over from AgeSmart kit).
Exfoliant: AgeSmart Multi-Vitamin Thermafoliant (favorite granular exfoliant), Daily Microfoliant (enzyme exfoliant) and BioElements Quick Refiner (chemical exfoliant). Next I want to try Daily Resurfacer (chemical exfoliant) on a regular basis. It’s a higher strength exfoliant.
Serums: MediBac Overnight Clearing Gel, Clean Start Hit the Spot and Intensive Eye Repair. I am trying out ChromoWhite Extreme C on my hyperpigmentation.
Moisturizer: Skin Smoothing Cream (summer), Intensive Moisture Balance (winter), and AgeSmart Dynamic Skin Recovery SPF 30 (both).
Sunscreen: Solar Defense Booster SPF 30 (love it!)
In the shower: 
Body wash: Dermalogica’s Conditioning Body Wash (like the scent and the natural ingredients, but not the price). Next I’m going to try Dove’s new nutrium body wash. It’s just hard for me to find a scent I like with regular store brands.
Body lotion/cream: Dermalogica’s Ultra Rich Body Cream (really like this product so far). Next I’m going to try the new products from Gold Bond. I’ve tried a lot of body lotions/cream. I think the Ultra Rich Body Cream feels the best on my skin.
I am trying the new Aquafresh iso-active toothpaste. I like the paste but not the mess. It oozes from the container even after you clean it.
What Are Goose Bumps?
Feroche Esthetics Newsletter April 2010 Vol. #1, Issue #3 Excerpt
I thought this was very interesting when I first learned about it. The arrectores pilorum (singular arrector pili) are small muscles which connect the hair follicles to the dermis. Contractions of these muscles cause the hairs to stand on end a.k.a. goose bumps. In addition, contraction of this muscle is involuntary. Stresses such as cold, fear, etc. may stimulate the sympathetic nervous system and thus cause the contraction, but the muscle is not under conscious control.
Furthermore, contraction of the muscles has a number of different purposes. Its principle function in the majority of mammals is to provide insulation: air becomes trapped between the erect hairs, helping the animal retain heat. Erection of the porcupine’s long, thick hairs causes the animal to become more intimidating, scaring predators. Pressure exerted by the muscle may cause sebum (oil) to be forced along the hair follicle towards the surface, protecting the hair.
The effectiveness of the muscles' action in humans has been questioned, as humans have relatively little body hair to allow for thermal insulation.
Hair Growth Cycle
Feroche Esthetics Newsletter April 2010 Vol. #1, Issue #3
You may have heard me say that there are three stages of hair growth: anagen, catagen, and telogen. Two hairs can be growing next to each other and be at different stages of growth. It takes approximately 4 to13 weeks for hair to grow from the papilla to the surface of the skin. Repeat visits are normally necessary to get hair on the same growth cycle, eventually increasing your time between waxing treatments.
- Anagen-the growth stage during which new hair is produced. New keratinized cells are manufactured in the hair follicle during the anagen stage. Activity is greater in the hair bulb, which pushes down into the dermis and swells with cell mitosis.
- Catagen-is the regression (falling out) stage of hair growth. In the Catagen stage, the hair shaft grows upward and detaches itself from the bulb.
- Telogen-during the telogen stage, the hair is at its full size and is erect in the follicle. It shows above the skin’s surface. The hair bulb is not active, and the hair falls out. The bulb then moves upward into the dermis and begins to grow a new hair. The cycle then begins again.
Cell Renewal Factor
Feroche Esthetics Newsletter April 2010 Vol. #1, Issue #3 Excerpt
It is important to exfoliate in order to increase your cell renewal factor (CRF), or cell turnover rate. The CRF keeps skin cells from building up. The CRF process slows down with age.
The average CRF for:
It is important to exfoliate in order to increase your cell renewal factor (CRF), or cell turnover rate. The CRF keeps skin cells from building up. The CRF process slows down with age.
The average CRF for:
- Babies 14 days
- Teenagers 21 to 28 days
- Middle-age 28 to 42
- 50 and older 42 to 84 days
Factors that influence CRF include:
- Genetics
- Natural environment
- Medical history
- Lifestyle
- Personal care
To help reduce the signs of aging, rough skin, clogged pores and ingrown hairs, stick to a routine where you exfoliate your face and body twice a week.
Shave 101
As one of my male clients said in a sarcastic whine the other day “men have needs too”, I have included this segment for you. Women can learn a thing or two too. The following are facts provided by Dermalogica's Education Center.
What happens when skin is shaved?
Simply put, shaving is a form of mechanical exfoliation. Shaving triggers a high level of visible irritation and can serve as a form of over-exfoliation, as well as lead to a compromised lipid barrier. When the skin’s lipid barrier is compromised, there is an increase in moisture loss, which leads to dry, scaly, cracked skin, and a sensitized skin condition. Further dehydration can occur in the lower layers of the epidermis when the skin’s lipid barrier is compromised. A dehydrated skin leads to inefficiencies in the physiology of the skin, in particular, enzymes responsible for normal desquamation. Skin dryness can increase skin’s susceptibility to a various number of shaving concerns, including Pseudofolliculitis barbae (ingrown hairs and razor bumps), razor burn and sensitivity.
The top shaving concerns include:
• Pseudofolliculitis barbae
• Razor burn
• Tough, heavy beards
Pseudofolliculitis barbae (Ingrown Hairs and Razor Bumps)
What happens when skin is shaved?
Simply put, shaving is a form of mechanical exfoliation. Shaving triggers a high level of visible irritation and can serve as a form of over-exfoliation, as well as lead to a compromised lipid barrier. When the skin’s lipid barrier is compromised, there is an increase in moisture loss, which leads to dry, scaly, cracked skin, and a sensitized skin condition. Further dehydration can occur in the lower layers of the epidermis when the skin’s lipid barrier is compromised. A dehydrated skin leads to inefficiencies in the physiology of the skin, in particular, enzymes responsible for normal desquamation. Skin dryness can increase skin’s susceptibility to a various number of shaving concerns, including Pseudofolliculitis barbae (ingrown hairs and razor bumps), razor burn and sensitivity.
The top shaving concerns include:
• Pseudofolliculitis barbae
• Razor burn
• Tough, heavy beards
Pseudofolliculitis barbae (Ingrown Hairs and Razor Bumps)
Ingrown hairs manifest on skin when hair is cut, and the hair grows back in at an improper angle. The process of cutting the end of the hair shaft through shaving can force hair back into its follicle, or even cause hair to double over on itself, re-entering the same follicle and growing inward instead of exiting the surface. The hair shaft can also grow and enter another follicle.
The body recognizes the ingrown hair as a foreign body (similar to the way it would a splinter), and triggers an inflammatory response that includes redness, itchiness and a raised area that resembles a pimple that can fill with pus. To help prevent ingrown hairs, start by exfoliating with physical and chemical exfoliants prior to shaving. Physical exfoliants including micro-fine Silica beads will help effectively exfoliate and prep the skin’s surface and lift hairs. Chemical exfoliants including Lactic Acid and Salicylic Acid will help remove dead skin cells, lift ingrown hairs above the skin line, and soften and smooth skin. Retinol will also help gently exfoliate dulling skin cells from the skin’s surface. Antiseptic essential oils of Tea Tree and Eucalyptus help clear pores to prevent clogging while purifying skin.
Razor Burn
Razor burn can occur a number of ways when skin is shaved incorrectly: when skin is shaved too closely and too quickly, when shaving with a blunt blade, when the blade is not rinsed enough between shaving strokes (leaving build-up on the blade), when too much skin is removed during the process, when dry shaving or not using enough lubrication between skin and razor, when shaving against the grain, or when shaving over already irritated or sensitized areas.
Razor burn is inflammation of the skin that we could classify as Irritant Contact Dermatitis. Irritant Contact Dermatitis is a reaction triggered by certain substances or ingredients, constant friction (razor against skin) or even water. The symptoms are burning, itching, stinging and redness. Razor burn can be as mild as a few hours of discomfort and reddened skin or can last for days, resembling a rash or scratch that remains itchy and inflamed. It can even manifest into infected breakouts or blisters.
Continued irritation or assault causing inflammation will result in prematurely aged skin. In addition to all of the symptoms that a sensitive or sensitized skin may experience, the sufferer will also see the signs of premature aging on the skin. Ingredients including Wheat Germ, Yeast Extract and Silicones will help protect the skin’s natural barrier lipid layer, helping to combat irritation, reddening and mechanical peeling associated with razor burn. Aloe Vera will calm skin while promoting skin repair, and Soybean Oil, Vitamin E and essential oils including Sambucus (Elder Tree) and Achillea (Yarrow) reinforce skin’s natural protective barrier while fighting free radical damage.
Tough, Heavy Beards
Depending upon genetics, ethnicity and hormones, males may have a heavy or tough beard. Heavier beards are more challenging to shave, as the hair shaft more frequently clogs the razor, or the razor is not sharp enough to cut through the hair, causing painful scraping and tugging. As such, men with heavier beards are more likely to suffer from itching, stinging, redness, nicks and cuts.
In order to ease the discomfort associated with shaving a heavier beard, the beard must be softened, lifted, and the skin must be protected through a shaving medium. However, most products use ingredients that are high in alkali that help soften and lift the beard but leave the skin dry, tight and irritated.
To help soften and lift the beard without damaging skin, look for pre-shave or shaving products that include Camphor, a natural antiseptic that helps firm skin to lift the beard, Clove Flower Oil, which helps open the pores while softening the beard to prevent scraping and tugging of the hair, Glycerin and Sodium Hyaluronate to add additional lubricity during shaving, and soothing Wheat Germ Extract and Yeast Extract to combat irritation and redness.
Shaving with the grain/shaving the head
In addition to using the correct products for skin condition and beard type, it is crucial to shave with the grain (the same direction the hair shaft grows). The direction of beard growth can be different all over the face, and will most likely be completely different on the neck. Because each client will have a unique grain (facial hair) pattern, it is critical to note the direction. Often times, the lower area of the neck will demonstrate a change in the grain, where hair will shift from growing downward and transition towards growing away from the chin or even upward. This can also happen on the sideburn area. If a man has a heavy, coarse beard, it is ok for him to shave against the grain, but only after first shaving with the grain, when the hair is shorter and less likely to curl back in on itself. After the initial shave with the grain, all necessary shaving mediums should be re-applied before shaving against the grain.
The pressure applied during the shave process is also critical to the prevention of nicks, cuts, razor burn, irritation and redness. Applying too much pressure won’t provide a closer shave: it will just facilitate the removal of skin cells, leading to irritation. If the razor is sharp enough, minimal pressure will be sufficient for removing hair. Use a steady, constant motion when shaving, making each shave stroke around 1 to 2 inches long.
The same rules that apply to shaving the face and neck apply to shaving the head. Attention to the direction of the grain is also important when shaving the head.
New Dermalogica Shave delivers a better shave through skin health
Male clients must understand that when selecting a shaving system, the affect of products on skin is just as important to consider as a preference for gel versus cream. And if they are truly looking to clear existing skin problems and maintain skin health in the most efficient method possible, it is necessary to do more than shave.
Dermalogica Shave allows skin care professionals to outline a straight-forward, three-step regimen that includes products for the Pre-shave, Shave, and Post-shave process. Each step acts as a progression, designed to help further eliminate the top skin care concerns brought on by shaving. This system will deliver smoother, healthier skin that experiences a drastic decline in reactions to shaving.
Pre-Shave:
Cleanse skin, soften beard, and minimize irritation, ingrown hairs, nicks and cuts. The cleansing portion of Pre-Shave helps remove bacteria, surface oils and debris that, if left on the skin before shaving, would impede the closeness of the shave and result in an uneven shave. The protective portion of Pre-Shave helps soften the beard while providing additional protection from the razor without impacting the closeness of the shave.
Shave:
Whether a gel, cream or water-soluble oil, it must protect skin’s natural moisture barrier. Shaving ingredients must help lift and soften the beard and protect skin from the blade without impeding razor closeness.
Post-Shave:
Application of post-shave products will cool and soothe skin while alleviating dryness, itchiness, redness, ingrown hairs, bumps and damage caused by skin-aging UV rays.
All Shave products are suitable for use on the head. Let me know if you would like any product samples.
The body recognizes the ingrown hair as a foreign body (similar to the way it would a splinter), and triggers an inflammatory response that includes redness, itchiness and a raised area that resembles a pimple that can fill with pus. To help prevent ingrown hairs, start by exfoliating with physical and chemical exfoliants prior to shaving. Physical exfoliants including micro-fine Silica beads will help effectively exfoliate and prep the skin’s surface and lift hairs. Chemical exfoliants including Lactic Acid and Salicylic Acid will help remove dead skin cells, lift ingrown hairs above the skin line, and soften and smooth skin. Retinol will also help gently exfoliate dulling skin cells from the skin’s surface. Antiseptic essential oils of Tea Tree and Eucalyptus help clear pores to prevent clogging while purifying skin.
Razor Burn
Razor burn can occur a number of ways when skin is shaved incorrectly: when skin is shaved too closely and too quickly, when shaving with a blunt blade, when the blade is not rinsed enough between shaving strokes (leaving build-up on the blade), when too much skin is removed during the process, when dry shaving or not using enough lubrication between skin and razor, when shaving against the grain, or when shaving over already irritated or sensitized areas.
Razor burn is inflammation of the skin that we could classify as Irritant Contact Dermatitis. Irritant Contact Dermatitis is a reaction triggered by certain substances or ingredients, constant friction (razor against skin) or even water. The symptoms are burning, itching, stinging and redness. Razor burn can be as mild as a few hours of discomfort and reddened skin or can last for days, resembling a rash or scratch that remains itchy and inflamed. It can even manifest into infected breakouts or blisters.
Continued irritation or assault causing inflammation will result in prematurely aged skin. In addition to all of the symptoms that a sensitive or sensitized skin may experience, the sufferer will also see the signs of premature aging on the skin. Ingredients including Wheat Germ, Yeast Extract and Silicones will help protect the skin’s natural barrier lipid layer, helping to combat irritation, reddening and mechanical peeling associated with razor burn. Aloe Vera will calm skin while promoting skin repair, and Soybean Oil, Vitamin E and essential oils including Sambucus (Elder Tree) and Achillea (Yarrow) reinforce skin’s natural protective barrier while fighting free radical damage.
Tough, Heavy Beards
Depending upon genetics, ethnicity and hormones, males may have a heavy or tough beard. Heavier beards are more challenging to shave, as the hair shaft more frequently clogs the razor, or the razor is not sharp enough to cut through the hair, causing painful scraping and tugging. As such, men with heavier beards are more likely to suffer from itching, stinging, redness, nicks and cuts.
In order to ease the discomfort associated with shaving a heavier beard, the beard must be softened, lifted, and the skin must be protected through a shaving medium. However, most products use ingredients that are high in alkali that help soften and lift the beard but leave the skin dry, tight and irritated.
To help soften and lift the beard without damaging skin, look for pre-shave or shaving products that include Camphor, a natural antiseptic that helps firm skin to lift the beard, Clove Flower Oil, which helps open the pores while softening the beard to prevent scraping and tugging of the hair, Glycerin and Sodium Hyaluronate to add additional lubricity during shaving, and soothing Wheat Germ Extract and Yeast Extract to combat irritation and redness.
Shaving with the grain/shaving the head
In addition to using the correct products for skin condition and beard type, it is crucial to shave with the grain (the same direction the hair shaft grows). The direction of beard growth can be different all over the face, and will most likely be completely different on the neck. Because each client will have a unique grain (facial hair) pattern, it is critical to note the direction. Often times, the lower area of the neck will demonstrate a change in the grain, where hair will shift from growing downward and transition towards growing away from the chin or even upward. This can also happen on the sideburn area. If a man has a heavy, coarse beard, it is ok for him to shave against the grain, but only after first shaving with the grain, when the hair is shorter and less likely to curl back in on itself. After the initial shave with the grain, all necessary shaving mediums should be re-applied before shaving against the grain.
The pressure applied during the shave process is also critical to the prevention of nicks, cuts, razor burn, irritation and redness. Applying too much pressure won’t provide a closer shave: it will just facilitate the removal of skin cells, leading to irritation. If the razor is sharp enough, minimal pressure will be sufficient for removing hair. Use a steady, constant motion when shaving, making each shave stroke around 1 to 2 inches long.
The same rules that apply to shaving the face and neck apply to shaving the head. Attention to the direction of the grain is also important when shaving the head.
New Dermalogica Shave delivers a better shave through skin health
Male clients must understand that when selecting a shaving system, the affect of products on skin is just as important to consider as a preference for gel versus cream. And if they are truly looking to clear existing skin problems and maintain skin health in the most efficient method possible, it is necessary to do more than shave.
Dermalogica Shave allows skin care professionals to outline a straight-forward, three-step regimen that includes products for the Pre-shave, Shave, and Post-shave process. Each step acts as a progression, designed to help further eliminate the top skin care concerns brought on by shaving. This system will deliver smoother, healthier skin that experiences a drastic decline in reactions to shaving.
Pre-Shave:
Cleanse skin, soften beard, and minimize irritation, ingrown hairs, nicks and cuts. The cleansing portion of Pre-Shave helps remove bacteria, surface oils and debris that, if left on the skin before shaving, would impede the closeness of the shave and result in an uneven shave. The protective portion of Pre-Shave helps soften the beard while providing additional protection from the razor without impacting the closeness of the shave.
Shave:
Whether a gel, cream or water-soluble oil, it must protect skin’s natural moisture barrier. Shaving ingredients must help lift and soften the beard and protect skin from the blade without impeding razor closeness.
Post-Shave:
Application of post-shave products will cool and soothe skin while alleviating dryness, itchiness, redness, ingrown hairs, bumps and damage caused by skin-aging UV rays.
All Shave products are suitable for use on the head. Let me know if you would like any product samples.
AGE smart
Feroche Esthetics Newsletter March 2010 Vol. #1, Issue #2 ExcerptSo how can I tell you about the aging process and not put you to sleep with all the scientific mumbo jumbo? I’ll try to keep it short and to the point. If you want the nitty gritty just let me know and I’ll provide you with it, all 44 pages. The majority of this excerpt contains facts provided by Dermalogica's The Book.
According to a recent study by the American Academy of Dermatology, 94% of women are confused by anti-aging treatments on the market. Therefore, consumers are becoming much more product savvy since they are tired of spending premium dollars on false promises.
Wrinkles, uneven pigmentation, loss of skin tone, broken capillaries, dehydration are all physical manifestation of skin aging. Age related skin changes are the result of genetically-programmed changes (intrinsic factors) and environmental wear-and-tear on the skin (extrinsic factors). While both influence the skin’s structure and function, extrinsic factors cause more pronounced changes. Estimates state that 80-90% of what we see on our skin as adults is the result of exposure to daylight, which is referred to as photoaging. Manifestations of photoaging include an increase in wrinkle formation, a loss of tension and elasticity, degeneration of the vascular supply and skin thickness, a reduction in the water-binding properties of the skin, dilated capillaries (telangiectasis), hyperpigmentation and other skin discoloration. Bethany says: That is why it is very important to wear sunscreen and to avoid tanning beds.
While scientists attribute the majority of these structural changes to exposure to ultraviolet (UV) radiation, it has only been in recent years that they have come to understand the actual biochemical triggers that instigate these changes. These are chemical reactions that occur within the skin and include:
• Generation of Reactive Oxygen Species (ROS)
Also known as free radicals (an electron that has lost its oxygen molecule). During times of environmental stress, ROS levels can increase causing damage to cell structures. This is the major cause of degenerative disorders including aging and disease. Studies have shown that UV-induced damage to the skin is in part caused by ROS. Lipid peroxidation also results from ROS damage to cell membranes, leading to premature aging, skin cancer and cell death.
• Glycation leading to Advanced Glycation End-products (AGEs).
We now know that collagen and elastin proteins are highly susceptible to an internal chemical reaction within the body called glycation. This is a non-enzyme mediated reaction that takes place between free amino groups in proteins and a sugar such as glucose. The same glucose that provides energy for our cells can react with proteins (such as collagen), resulting in the formation of AGEs and ROSs; these contribute to cross-linking of protein fibers, the loss of elasticity and changes in the dermis associated with the aging process. We now know that inflammation is the catalyst critical to the aging process and many diseases. For example diabetics have characteristically high levels of sugar in their blood and suffer from numerous health issues which emanate from the formation of AGEs in the body. Hence, diabetes is considered a disease of accelerated aging due to the inflammation that arises from the formation of AGEs. This is not restricted to diabetes; muscle weakness, heart disease and many diseases of the brain are associated with glycation. Scientists now believe that reducing glycation is a means of slowing the aging process and disease formation.
• Activation of metalloproteinase enzymes (Matrix Metalloproteinases or MMPs) with a subsequent decline in collagen biosynthesis.
MMPs are enzymes that control tissue degradation in the dermis. When stimulated (by internal growth factors, inflammatory modulators and exposure to UV radiation) they break down the collagen and elastin in the dermis inhibiting any new collagen formation.
What is happening below the surface of the skin?
• Biosynthesis of new collagen and elastin slows.
• Cross-linking of collagen.
• Impaired barrier function leads to dehydration.
• Cell turn-over and cell renewal slows.
• Epidermis thins, Stratum Corneum thickens.
• Erratic melanin formation (age spots, hyper/hypopigmentation)
• Inflammation
What can be done to help control the biochemical reactions that lead to skin aging?
• Antioxidants to fight Reactive Oxygen Species (ROS-free radical) damage
Normally the body can handle free radical with the use of antioxidants. Antioxidants include vitamins, enzymes and even proteins that can be found naturally in the body or ingested as part of our diet. If antioxidants are in short supply, or if the free radical damage is excessive, damage to the cells and tissue will occur.
• Inhibit MMPs
Natural MMP inhibitors exist in skin, but as expected, they decline with age. MMPs may be inhibited by topical agents, such as retinoids. For best results, one should use a product that controls MMPs while stimulating collagen, elastin and Hyaluronic Acid biosynthesis.
• Create “sugar traps” or cross-link breakers to control the formation of AGEs
Controlling the formation of AGEs is a relatively new field of research; apparently the best means of controlling AGEs is to interfere with their formation. Studies have shown that a peptide molecule known as Arginine/Lysine polypeptide can bind sugar, preventing it from reacting with proteins and triggering cross-linking of collagen. This peptide molecule acts as a sugar trap, binding to the sugar in the body, making it unable to react with proteins.
At the International Dermal Institute, they have researched the changes that occur during skin aging and what they can realistically do for this pre-existing condition. Instead of focusing on treating just the manifestations of skin aging (wrinkles, hyperpigmentation, loss of elasticity, etc), they focused their efforts on understanding how they may impact the biochemical reactions that manifest these changes to stop them before they start. This research has resulted in the development of AGE Smart, a system of retail and professional products designed to specifically treat and control the structural manifestation associated with skin aging and biological triggers that lead to these changes, as well as treat the visible signs of skin aging so skin is smoother, firmer and healthier. Keeping with the Dermalogica commitment to purity, all products are non-comedogenic and free of lanolin, mineral oil, S.D. alcohol, artificial colors and fragrances, and are packaged in hygienic, contamination-free packaging.
Back To Basics
Feroche Esthetics Newsletter March 2010, Vol. #1, Issue #2 Excerpt
By request, let’s get back to skin care basics. For most, a complete at home skin care regimen consists of:
• Cleanse
This should be done in the morning, after a work-out, and before you go to bed in order to remove makeup, dirt, oil, sweat, pollution, etc. If cleansing in the shower, your skin may benefit from cleansing after you shampoo and condition your hair.
• Exfoliate
This should be done twice a week to remove dead skin cells for fresh healthy looking skin. Different types of exfoliants are available depending on your preference (granular, chemical, enzyme or mechanical ie. with a brush). Don’t forget to exfoliate your body too!
• Masque
A treatment masque can be used twice a week to help with certain skin care needs. Example: a clay masque for oily skin/ black heads or a moisturizing masque for dry skin.
• Serum or Treatment product
Depending on the product’s ingredients, apply in the morning and/or at night. It can be used to treat certain skin care issues such as acne or signs of aging.
• Moisturizer
It is important to moisturize in order to achieve overall oil/ water balance. Don’t forget to moisturize your body too!
• Sunscreen
This is the most useful anti aging product you could use. An SPF of 30 is recommended. Feroche can provide Dermalogica sunscreen for most skin types/conditions.
By request, let’s get back to skin care basics. For most, a complete at home skin care regimen consists of:
• Cleanse
This should be done in the morning, after a work-out, and before you go to bed in order to remove makeup, dirt, oil, sweat, pollution, etc. If cleansing in the shower, your skin may benefit from cleansing after you shampoo and condition your hair.
• Exfoliate
This should be done twice a week to remove dead skin cells for fresh healthy looking skin. Different types of exfoliants are available depending on your preference (granular, chemical, enzyme or mechanical ie. with a brush). Don’t forget to exfoliate your body too!
• Masque
A treatment masque can be used twice a week to help with certain skin care needs. Example: a clay masque for oily skin/ black heads or a moisturizing masque for dry skin.
• Serum or Treatment product
Depending on the product’s ingredients, apply in the morning and/or at night. It can be used to treat certain skin care issues such as acne or signs of aging.
• Moisturizer
It is important to moisturize in order to achieve overall oil/ water balance. Don’t forget to moisturize your body too!
• Sunscreen
This is the most useful anti aging product you could use. An SPF of 30 is recommended. Feroche can provide Dermalogica sunscreen for most skin types/conditions.
Skin Type vs Skin Condition
Feroche Esthetics Newsletter February 2010 Vol. #1, Issue #2 Excerpt
A common mistake made by both client and Skin Therapist is not knowing the difference between skin type and skin condition. These are two different things and must be determined by the Skin Therapist.
A skin type is determined genetically by our parents and can be measured by the amount of oil secretion in the skin. Over-active sebaceous activity will produce an oily skin, and under-active sebaceous glands will produce a dry skin. The skin’s reactivity, capillary (small blood vessels sometimes visible under the skin) activity and sensitivity can also be genetically determined.
Factors that contribute to a skin condition can be surgery, medication, stress and illness. Skin conditions will affect all skin types and will regularly change, possibly from day-to-day. The Skin Therapist assesses the skin before every professional treatment (Face Mapping/Consultation) to find out what conditions you are experiencing, and to address this in the treatment and when recommending product.
Skin Types:
A common mistake made by both client and Skin Therapist is not knowing the difference between skin type and skin condition. These are two different things and must be determined by the Skin Therapist.
A skin type is determined genetically by our parents and can be measured by the amount of oil secretion in the skin. Over-active sebaceous activity will produce an oily skin, and under-active sebaceous glands will produce a dry skin. The skin’s reactivity, capillary (small blood vessels sometimes visible under the skin) activity and sensitivity can also be genetically determined.
Factors that contribute to a skin condition can be surgery, medication, stress and illness. Skin conditions will affect all skin types and will regularly change, possibly from day-to-day. The Skin Therapist assesses the skin before every professional treatment (Face Mapping/Consultation) to find out what conditions you are experiencing, and to address this in the treatment and when recommending product.
Skin Types:
- Normal/Combination
- Oil dry
- Oily
- Acne
- Sensitive/Rosacea
Skin Conditions:
- Dehydration
- Sensitized
- Aging
- Pigmentation
- Congestion/Breakouts
Understanding Adult Acne
Feroche Esthetics Newsletter February 2010 Vol. #1, Issue #1 Excerpt
A common misconception is that acne only affects teenagers. But more than ever before, adults are suffering with oily and acneic skin conditions. The following are facts provided by Dermalogica’s The Book.
Clinical studies indicate that between 40 and 55 percent of the adult population in the 20 to 40 age group are diagnosed with a low grade, persistent acne and oily skin.
Clinical studies indicate that between 40 and 55 percent of the adult population in the 20 to 40 age group are diagnosed with a low grade, persistent acne and oily skin.
According to the Journal of American Academy of Dermatology, 54% of women older than age 25 have some facial acne, which is most likely attributed to hormonal fluctuations that trigger excess sebum (oil) resulting in acne. Acne arising in adulthood is more likely to be inflammatory with lesions predominantly located around the mouth, chin and jaw line. Likewise, adults often have sensitized skin, or a combination of skin conditions in addition to their acne, which makes treatment more challenging.
What are the four main biochemical triggers that contribute to acne?
What are the four main biochemical triggers that contribute to acne?
The primary catalyst for adult acne is chronic stress. Balancing personal and professional responsibilities makes this generation of adults the most time-compressed generation in history. The constant, continued and heightened level of stress throws our adrenal glands (sits on top of kidneys, releases hormones) into overdrive, which in turn can boost sebum (oil) production, setting the stage for acne development.
While stress creates the trigger for acne, there are four main factors that contribute to the development of acne: overactive sebaceous glands (the production of too much oil), dead skin cell accumulation, bacteria and inflammation.
While stress creates the trigger for acne, there are four main factors that contribute to the development of acne: overactive sebaceous glands (the production of too much oil), dead skin cell accumulation, bacteria and inflammation.
Despite which form of acne is prevalent, it is known that sebum production or oil is the catalyst for the series of events that result in acne or breakouts. Often times, a client will not think they have even a mild form of acne and will attribute their skin condition to excess oiliness. Excess sebum is often associated with enlarged pores, a tendency toward follicle (pore) congestion and an oily T-zone.
Cell accumulation and Bacteria
In a normal follicle (pore), dead surface cells are continually sloughing from the epidermal canal and are deposited at the surface of the skin. However, when acne is present, a proliferation of cells occurs at the neck of the follicle, accompanied by excess sebum that causes the cells to stick together along with bacteria; together the sebum and cells lead to the formation of an impaction plug that provides a nice environment for the bacteria to thrive. Bethany says: that is one of the reasons why it is important to exfoliate.
Inflammation
Inflamed lesions may also result, whereby the follicle wall ruptures forming a papule (pimple). If the break in the follicle is close to the surface, a pustule (juicy pimple) results, if it is deeper a nodule forms. In some cases, a membrane entraps the infection and a cyst develops.
Regardless, enzymes are stimulated to help repair the damaged tissue and white blood cells invade the area: this is when inflammation sets in. Bethany says: you do not want to try to “pop” cystic acne because it could spread the infection under the skin. Unfortunately you should only treat and be patient.
What can be done to help treat, clear and prevent adult acne?
In order to control acne, we must interrupt the degeneration of the follicle by affecting the four main contributing factors. The International Dermal Institute has researched several new ingredients that are extremely effective in controlling acne. These ingredients can be found in Dermalogica’s MediBac Clearing system.
In a normal follicle (pore), dead surface cells are continually sloughing from the epidermal canal and are deposited at the surface of the skin. However, when acne is present, a proliferation of cells occurs at the neck of the follicle, accompanied by excess sebum that causes the cells to stick together along with bacteria; together the sebum and cells lead to the formation of an impaction plug that provides a nice environment for the bacteria to thrive. Bethany says: that is one of the reasons why it is important to exfoliate.
Inflammation
Inflamed lesions may also result, whereby the follicle wall ruptures forming a papule (pimple). If the break in the follicle is close to the surface, a pustule (juicy pimple) results, if it is deeper a nodule forms. In some cases, a membrane entraps the infection and a cyst develops.
Regardless, enzymes are stimulated to help repair the damaged tissue and white blood cells invade the area: this is when inflammation sets in. Bethany says: you do not want to try to “pop” cystic acne because it could spread the infection under the skin. Unfortunately you should only treat and be patient.
What can be done to help treat, clear and prevent adult acne?
In order to control acne, we must interrupt the degeneration of the follicle by affecting the four main contributing factors. The International Dermal Institute has researched several new ingredients that are extremely effective in controlling acne. These ingredients can be found in Dermalogica’s MediBac Clearing system.
Their research has shown that by inhibiting the activity of overactive sebaceous glands, we not only eliminate the food source for the bacteria, but we also eliminate oily shine and create a more esthetically pleasing appearance on the skin.
To control cell accumulation we need to stimulate natural exfoliation superficially as well as in the follicle lining. By exfoliating to remove surface cells that have not been shed, we can help eliminate the impaction of follicles which triggers the early stages of comedone (blackhead) formation.
By controlling bacteria on the skin’s surface and in the follicle, we can control the source of fatty acids that contribute to irritation. To help keep inflammation caused by adult acne under control, we must consider the application of topical anti-inflammatory repair agents, botanicals, and humectants to help the healing process and soothe inflamed skin.
Dermalogica’s new MediBac Clearing system works to treat, clear and prevent adult acne while addressing the needs of adult skin. The MediBac Clearing system controls acne without compromising skin’s integrity, which means skin is consistently clear and healthier. Each product, with its unique acne-fighting and clearing ingredients, is designed to be layered upon the skin to provide around-the-clock, maximum control of the four main factors that contribute to acne.
To control cell accumulation we need to stimulate natural exfoliation superficially as well as in the follicle lining. By exfoliating to remove surface cells that have not been shed, we can help eliminate the impaction of follicles which triggers the early stages of comedone (blackhead) formation.
By controlling bacteria on the skin’s surface and in the follicle, we can control the source of fatty acids that contribute to irritation. To help keep inflammation caused by adult acne under control, we must consider the application of topical anti-inflammatory repair agents, botanicals, and humectants to help the healing process and soothe inflamed skin.
Dermalogica’s new MediBac Clearing system works to treat, clear and prevent adult acne while addressing the needs of adult skin. The MediBac Clearing system controls acne without compromising skin’s integrity, which means skin is consistently clear and healthier. Each product, with its unique acne-fighting and clearing ingredients, is designed to be layered upon the skin to provide around-the-clock, maximum control of the four main factors that contribute to acne.
As Seen On T.V.
Feroche Esthetics Newsletter February2010 Vol.#1, Issue#1 Excerpt
My name is Bethany and I would like to take this time to thank those who have continued loyalty for the products and services I provide. I vow to continue to offer you the best of me by providing you personalized services, education and product recommendations that suit your individual needs.
I have been a Skin Therapist for almost three years and as most of you know, I cannot get enough education, yet there is so much more to learn. I am asked many questions, so I wanted to start this newsletter to introduce industry information to all of my clients in an organized format so everyone is informed. I hope you find it useful.
I was asked to be the spokesperson for MCC’s Business Management Entrepreneurship Program for the Spring Quarter. The marketing campaign began January 25th and includes T.V., radio, and direct mail. See my testimonial featuring Feroche Esthetics at http://www.mccneb.edu/businessandcommunity/successstories.asp
If you have any skin care questions, concerns, or subject ideas for future newsletters please do not hesitate to ask.
My name is Bethany and I would like to take this time to thank those who have continued loyalty for the products and services I provide. I vow to continue to offer you the best of me by providing you personalized services, education and product recommendations that suit your individual needs.
I have been a Skin Therapist for almost three years and as most of you know, I cannot get enough education, yet there is so much more to learn. I am asked many questions, so I wanted to start this newsletter to introduce industry information to all of my clients in an organized format so everyone is informed. I hope you find it useful.
I was asked to be the spokesperson for MCC’s Business Management Entrepreneurship Program for the Spring Quarter. The marketing campaign began January 25th and includes T.V., radio, and direct mail. See my testimonial featuring Feroche Esthetics at http://www.mccneb.edu/businessandcommunity/successstories.asp
If you have any skin care questions, concerns, or subject ideas for future newsletters please do not hesitate to ask.