Q: I am a skin therapist and owner of Feroche Esthetics in Omaha, NE. First question: I had a new client last week come in for face wax. During the consultation she told me her dermatologist had told her to use hydrogen peroxide on her face. She doesn't use cleanser or moisturizer just hydrogen peroxide. She has sensitized skin and dry flaking. Why would he recommend this?
A: While we can't speak on behalf of any dermatologists, my guess is that he's recommending Hydrogen Peroxide because it's a strong oxidant that may kill any bacteria that is causing mild acne. It may also be oxidizing the lipids that are part of the protective lipid layer that prevents dehydration of the skin. I definitely recommend you put her on a mild cleanser, not Hydrogen peroxide.
Q: Second question: recently I read an article on Dr. Oz Show.com on tanning. In this article he frowns against spray tanning to microparticles that can be inhaled, as well as, stating to avoid self tanners because the browning ingredients may damage the DNA in skin cells. Is this true of DHA? What do you think?
A: Hi Bethany, self tanners use an active agent called dihydroxyacetone (DHA). They react with amino acids in the skin to make a brown coloration. There is some validity to the concern of spray tanning if you're not protecting your mouth or nasal passages. However, there are no epidemiological studies linking DHA exposure and cancer risk. There are some studies showing mutagenic activity in some bacterial strains, which is probably where Dr. Oz is getting his info. ~Dr. C at IDI
Q: Is there such a thing as addiction to tanning?
A: Hi Theresa, yes, there have been studies linking tanning and addiction. Scientists have found that UV increases a gene called p53, which triggers tanning and also increases endorphins. Endorphins are the 'feel good' genes, which can lead to addiction. The more you feel good after a tanning session, the more you're likely to do it. ~Dr. Claudia at IDI
Q: I have a client that I'm currently treating - she is in her late 20's, normal/oily skin, very dull, hormonal acne. Currently I am doing microderm treatments and trying to treat the acne, yet give her a glowy complexion. Many acne products are drying and I'm having a difficult time finding the right combination. Any suggestions? Thank you!
A: When dealing with inflamed acne, there are better choices to use to treat her hormonal acne than microdermabrasion which can be a strong physical exfoliant for an inflamed condition. A better choice is enzymes and gentle hydroxy acids like lactic acid. Be sure to look for adult acne preparations like salicylic acid as well.
Q: What are the ingredients in soap? I want to tell my clients what to look for so they buy soap free products. Thanks.
A: Hi Katie, soap has residual alkalines in it with a PH of about 9 and the skin's natural pH is about 4-6 so the alkalinity strips the natural barrier from the skin. We suggest using a cleanser or cleansing bar known as syndets that have non-alkaline cleansing agents gentle enough for the skin. ~Dr. C at IDI
Q: I find it very difficult to treat my clients with severe hyper-pigmentation, what do you recommend?
A: Firstly, find the cause and eliminate where possible. Exfoliation with lactic acid is a great starting point and remember that clients should wear sunscreen daily! A course of treatments is essential and should include electrical equipment that will enhance product penetration such as galvanic iontophoresis or specific iontophoresis (See more microcurrent). Avoid hydroquinone as it safety has come under scrutiny and there is evidence that it may be toxic and a potential carcinogen which is why it is already banned in many countries. Using ingredients that brighten the skin and target the melanin production (such as oligopeptide-34) are crucial.
Q: I cannot get rid of my micocomedones. I am using JaneIredale Makeup. I am using daily micro (on a daily basis) + overnight clearning gel for weeks now no results. What else should I be trying?
A: Try a mild, cream-based, enzymatic exfoliant that uses Lactic Acid and Salicylic Acid to slough off dead skin cells, and sulfur to clear excess oil and congestion in the follicle.
Q: What are your thoughts on the product Cetaphil? And why? I have heard different opinions. I know a lot of dermatologists recommend it.
A: Hi Tammy, cetaphil is a basic, but not a results oriented cleanser.
Q: What is an organic sunscreen and is it better?
A: Hi Cecille, organic sunscreens are chemical sunscreens that absorb UV energy and dissipate it as heat. The name organic does not mean the same as it does when associated with an organic plant extract (like what you buy at whole foods). As far as better- if you have sensitive skin non-organic (or physical) sunscreens are better. Only blends of chemical suncreens will provide broad-spectrum, not individual chemical sunscreens. ~Dr. C
Q: I am finding many of my clients are having severe milia problems, especially older women that are using all day wear makeup, their dermatologists want to cut them out, but I recommend exfoliation, what would you recommend for treating this and effectively preventing them?
A: start by asking your client if they are using a product, cosmetic or skin care, that contains mineral oil. This is often the source of the problem, recommend your client start with a gentle daily exfoliation after make-up removal, then 2-3x/week, recommend an exfoliating mask with enzymes to remove dead cells and debris that can clog pores. The long lasting make-up is probably the culprit to the clog pores.
Q: I keep hearing the word nanotechnology, what is it?
A: Hi Michele, nanotechnology refers to substances that are incredibly small in size. When something is within the nanotechnology scale it has more surface area and is therefore more reactive. The properties of a substance change when they are micronized. The most common form of nanotechnology, incidentally perfectly safe to use, is when zinc oxide and titanium dioxide particles are made very translucent in physical sunscreens. ~Dr. C
Q: I have a client who recently had a sun spot pop up on her face. She is currently using skin resufacing cleanser, antioxidant hydramist, dynamic skin recovry, and power rich. I suggested the chroma white system along with a series of skin brightening treatments. She wants to wait till the fall to do it, but I was wondering if I should add the c-12 concentrate to her regimen?
A: Dynamic skin recovery may not be giving her enough coverage if she is not applying an adequeate amount of 1 teaspoon of it, or she can supplement it with a booster sunscreen. I do advise you start the client on C-12 concentrate now--to prevent further development of the pigmentation, but if she anticipates sun exposure throughout the summer, than yes, have her start the full regimen come fall.
Q: Hi! How do I treat dark circles under my client’s eyes?
A: Dark circles are caused by hyperpigmentation and deoxygenated blood vessels. Genetics also play a role. As skin therapists we can only treat dark circles due to hyperpigmentation with ingredients such as: retinol, licorice and niacinamide.
Q: What should I do with my large pores?
A: With regards to reducing your pore size, unfortunately that is not possible. The best way to reduce the appearance of large pores is to exfoliate with enzymes and hydroxy acids. It's also beneficial to use Clay based cleansers and masques to keep excess oil and debris from clogging the follicle causing the enlarged appearance.
Q: I have been hearing a lot lately about parabens - are they safe?
A: Absolutely. Many studies verify the efficacy and safety of this group of preservatives. Preservatives are essential to maintain the safety of products. For more information please read: http://www.cfsan.fda.gov/~dms/cos-para.html Also, under the European Cosmetics Regulations it is deemed safe.
Q: What is your insight on using (clients) the tear drop buff puff sponges to exfoliate the skin? It seems customers attest to using these.
A: The Buff Puff pads are too abrasive to use as a cleansing method of removing product and can harvest bacteria over time.
Q: What ingredients are a No No to use on Pregnant women?
A: You should always advise your client to consult with their physician. As a skin therapist, we can advise to avoid Vitamin A and Salycilic Acid.
Q: I also heard we should avoid the additives because the essential oils can be absorbed into the blood stream and is not good if they are breastfeeding...is this correct?
A: Yes Bethany, essential oils are known to be absorbed into the blood stream, so probably best to avoid use on clients who are either pregnant or breast feeding. But again, always advise they check with their physician.
Q: What is the next big thing with skincare that you can see on the horizon? What way is the industry going?
A: Hi Matt, from a science perspective, the field seems to be getting more and more sophisticated. The area of neurocosmetics also seem to be on the increase. Using technology to increase permeability for actives that target specific concerns are also growing. ~Dr. C
Q: How often can you do a series of peels safely?
A: Hi Cassie, that is a tough question to answer, as it really depends on the formulation and the potency of a particular exfoliant product. It also will vary dependent on the client's skin and what they're currently using at home. Peels can typically be performed in a series, spaced 7-10 days apart to achieve results, however, other peels should only be performed at 4 week intervals. We suggest to check with the product manufacturer for their recommendation.
And it is also important to do a thorough consultation prior to performing any peels, to identify any contraindications, such as if the client is undergoing laser treatment with a physician.
Q: Why do dermatologists prescribe acne medication for rosacea?
A: Hi Helen, good question! Firstly, Acne and rosacea are different skin conditions that have one important thing in common: inflammation. Doxycycline is an oral drug prescribed by dermatologists which has anti-inflammatory properties that alleviate symptoms in rosacea. ~Dr. Claudia at IDI
Q: Hi! What’s the difference between chemical and physical sunscreens, and can you give me specific ingredient examples?
A: Physical sunscreen ingredients (such as zinc oxide and titanium dioxide) reflect UVA and UVB rays, whereas chemical sunscreens absorb UVA/UVB rays lowering the energy level and releasing energy as heat – such as avobenzone (also known as Parsol 1789), oxybenzone and octocrylene.
Q: Hi Hannah! My 13 year old daughter has had problems with her skin..Im wondering if birth control will work to get her hormones on track?? Single Dad here...HELP!!!
A: Hi Ruben, we suggest you speak with your physician regarding this, but we can tell you that yes, birth control pills can regulate hormones, however, we do not recommend using this medication for this reason, without consulting with your physician.
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