As one of my male clients said in a sarcastic whine the other day “men have needs too”, I have included this segment for you. Women can learn a thing or two too. The following are facts provided by Dermalogica's Education Center.
What happens when skin is shaved?
Simply put, shaving is a form of mechanical exfoliation. Shaving triggers a high level of visible irritation and can serve as a form of over-exfoliation, as well as lead to a compromised lipid barrier. When the skin’s lipid barrier is compromised, there is an increase in moisture loss, which leads to dry, scaly, cracked skin, and a sensitized skin condition. Further dehydration can occur in the lower layers of the epidermis when the skin’s lipid barrier is compromised. A dehydrated skin leads to inefficiencies in the physiology of the skin, in particular, enzymes responsible for normal desquamation. Skin dryness can increase skin’s susceptibility to a various number of shaving concerns, including Pseudofolliculitis barbae (ingrown hairs and razor bumps), razor burn and sensitivity.
The top shaving concerns include:
• Pseudofolliculitis barbae
• Razor burn
• Tough, heavy beards
Pseudofolliculitis barbae (Ingrown Hairs and Razor Bumps)
What happens when skin is shaved?
Simply put, shaving is a form of mechanical exfoliation. Shaving triggers a high level of visible irritation and can serve as a form of over-exfoliation, as well as lead to a compromised lipid barrier. When the skin’s lipid barrier is compromised, there is an increase in moisture loss, which leads to dry, scaly, cracked skin, and a sensitized skin condition. Further dehydration can occur in the lower layers of the epidermis when the skin’s lipid barrier is compromised. A dehydrated skin leads to inefficiencies in the physiology of the skin, in particular, enzymes responsible for normal desquamation. Skin dryness can increase skin’s susceptibility to a various number of shaving concerns, including Pseudofolliculitis barbae (ingrown hairs and razor bumps), razor burn and sensitivity.
The top shaving concerns include:
• Pseudofolliculitis barbae
• Razor burn
• Tough, heavy beards
Pseudofolliculitis barbae (Ingrown Hairs and Razor Bumps)
Ingrown hairs manifest on skin when hair is cut, and the hair grows back in at an improper angle. The process of cutting the end of the hair shaft through shaving can force hair back into its follicle, or even cause hair to double over on itself, re-entering the same follicle and growing inward instead of exiting the surface. The hair shaft can also grow and enter another follicle.
The body recognizes the ingrown hair as a foreign body (similar to the way it would a splinter), and triggers an inflammatory response that includes redness, itchiness and a raised area that resembles a pimple that can fill with pus. To help prevent ingrown hairs, start by exfoliating with physical and chemical exfoliants prior to shaving. Physical exfoliants including micro-fine Silica beads will help effectively exfoliate and prep the skin’s surface and lift hairs. Chemical exfoliants including Lactic Acid and Salicylic Acid will help remove dead skin cells, lift ingrown hairs above the skin line, and soften and smooth skin. Retinol will also help gently exfoliate dulling skin cells from the skin’s surface. Antiseptic essential oils of Tea Tree and Eucalyptus help clear pores to prevent clogging while purifying skin.
Razor Burn
Razor burn can occur a number of ways when skin is shaved incorrectly: when skin is shaved too closely and too quickly, when shaving with a blunt blade, when the blade is not rinsed enough between shaving strokes (leaving build-up on the blade), when too much skin is removed during the process, when dry shaving or not using enough lubrication between skin and razor, when shaving against the grain, or when shaving over already irritated or sensitized areas.
Razor burn is inflammation of the skin that we could classify as Irritant Contact Dermatitis. Irritant Contact Dermatitis is a reaction triggered by certain substances or ingredients, constant friction (razor against skin) or even water. The symptoms are burning, itching, stinging and redness. Razor burn can be as mild as a few hours of discomfort and reddened skin or can last for days, resembling a rash or scratch that remains itchy and inflamed. It can even manifest into infected breakouts or blisters.
Continued irritation or assault causing inflammation will result in prematurely aged skin. In addition to all of the symptoms that a sensitive or sensitized skin may experience, the sufferer will also see the signs of premature aging on the skin. Ingredients including Wheat Germ, Yeast Extract and Silicones will help protect the skin’s natural barrier lipid layer, helping to combat irritation, reddening and mechanical peeling associated with razor burn. Aloe Vera will calm skin while promoting skin repair, and Soybean Oil, Vitamin E and essential oils including Sambucus (Elder Tree) and Achillea (Yarrow) reinforce skin’s natural protective barrier while fighting free radical damage.
Tough, Heavy Beards
Depending upon genetics, ethnicity and hormones, males may have a heavy or tough beard. Heavier beards are more challenging to shave, as the hair shaft more frequently clogs the razor, or the razor is not sharp enough to cut through the hair, causing painful scraping and tugging. As such, men with heavier beards are more likely to suffer from itching, stinging, redness, nicks and cuts.
In order to ease the discomfort associated with shaving a heavier beard, the beard must be softened, lifted, and the skin must be protected through a shaving medium. However, most products use ingredients that are high in alkali that help soften and lift the beard but leave the skin dry, tight and irritated.
To help soften and lift the beard without damaging skin, look for pre-shave or shaving products that include Camphor, a natural antiseptic that helps firm skin to lift the beard, Clove Flower Oil, which helps open the pores while softening the beard to prevent scraping and tugging of the hair, Glycerin and Sodium Hyaluronate to add additional lubricity during shaving, and soothing Wheat Germ Extract and Yeast Extract to combat irritation and redness.
Shaving with the grain/shaving the head
In addition to using the correct products for skin condition and beard type, it is crucial to shave with the grain (the same direction the hair shaft grows). The direction of beard growth can be different all over the face, and will most likely be completely different on the neck. Because each client will have a unique grain (facial hair) pattern, it is critical to note the direction. Often times, the lower area of the neck will demonstrate a change in the grain, where hair will shift from growing downward and transition towards growing away from the chin or even upward. This can also happen on the sideburn area. If a man has a heavy, coarse beard, it is ok for him to shave against the grain, but only after first shaving with the grain, when the hair is shorter and less likely to curl back in on itself. After the initial shave with the grain, all necessary shaving mediums should be re-applied before shaving against the grain.
The pressure applied during the shave process is also critical to the prevention of nicks, cuts, razor burn, irritation and redness. Applying too much pressure won’t provide a closer shave: it will just facilitate the removal of skin cells, leading to irritation. If the razor is sharp enough, minimal pressure will be sufficient for removing hair. Use a steady, constant motion when shaving, making each shave stroke around 1 to 2 inches long.
The same rules that apply to shaving the face and neck apply to shaving the head. Attention to the direction of the grain is also important when shaving the head.
New Dermalogica Shave delivers a better shave through skin health
Male clients must understand that when selecting a shaving system, the affect of products on skin is just as important to consider as a preference for gel versus cream. And if they are truly looking to clear existing skin problems and maintain skin health in the most efficient method possible, it is necessary to do more than shave.
Dermalogica Shave allows skin care professionals to outline a straight-forward, three-step regimen that includes products for the Pre-shave, Shave, and Post-shave process. Each step acts as a progression, designed to help further eliminate the top skin care concerns brought on by shaving. This system will deliver smoother, healthier skin that experiences a drastic decline in reactions to shaving.
Pre-Shave:
Cleanse skin, soften beard, and minimize irritation, ingrown hairs, nicks and cuts. The cleansing portion of Pre-Shave helps remove bacteria, surface oils and debris that, if left on the skin before shaving, would impede the closeness of the shave and result in an uneven shave. The protective portion of Pre-Shave helps soften the beard while providing additional protection from the razor without impacting the closeness of the shave.
Shave:
Whether a gel, cream or water-soluble oil, it must protect skin’s natural moisture barrier. Shaving ingredients must help lift and soften the beard and protect skin from the blade without impeding razor closeness.
Post-Shave:
Application of post-shave products will cool and soothe skin while alleviating dryness, itchiness, redness, ingrown hairs, bumps and damage caused by skin-aging UV rays.
All Shave products are suitable for use on the head. Let me know if you would like any product samples.
The body recognizes the ingrown hair as a foreign body (similar to the way it would a splinter), and triggers an inflammatory response that includes redness, itchiness and a raised area that resembles a pimple that can fill with pus. To help prevent ingrown hairs, start by exfoliating with physical and chemical exfoliants prior to shaving. Physical exfoliants including micro-fine Silica beads will help effectively exfoliate and prep the skin’s surface and lift hairs. Chemical exfoliants including Lactic Acid and Salicylic Acid will help remove dead skin cells, lift ingrown hairs above the skin line, and soften and smooth skin. Retinol will also help gently exfoliate dulling skin cells from the skin’s surface. Antiseptic essential oils of Tea Tree and Eucalyptus help clear pores to prevent clogging while purifying skin.
Razor Burn
Razor burn can occur a number of ways when skin is shaved incorrectly: when skin is shaved too closely and too quickly, when shaving with a blunt blade, when the blade is not rinsed enough between shaving strokes (leaving build-up on the blade), when too much skin is removed during the process, when dry shaving or not using enough lubrication between skin and razor, when shaving against the grain, or when shaving over already irritated or sensitized areas.
Razor burn is inflammation of the skin that we could classify as Irritant Contact Dermatitis. Irritant Contact Dermatitis is a reaction triggered by certain substances or ingredients, constant friction (razor against skin) or even water. The symptoms are burning, itching, stinging and redness. Razor burn can be as mild as a few hours of discomfort and reddened skin or can last for days, resembling a rash or scratch that remains itchy and inflamed. It can even manifest into infected breakouts or blisters.
Continued irritation or assault causing inflammation will result in prematurely aged skin. In addition to all of the symptoms that a sensitive or sensitized skin may experience, the sufferer will also see the signs of premature aging on the skin. Ingredients including Wheat Germ, Yeast Extract and Silicones will help protect the skin’s natural barrier lipid layer, helping to combat irritation, reddening and mechanical peeling associated with razor burn. Aloe Vera will calm skin while promoting skin repair, and Soybean Oil, Vitamin E and essential oils including Sambucus (Elder Tree) and Achillea (Yarrow) reinforce skin’s natural protective barrier while fighting free radical damage.
Tough, Heavy Beards
Depending upon genetics, ethnicity and hormones, males may have a heavy or tough beard. Heavier beards are more challenging to shave, as the hair shaft more frequently clogs the razor, or the razor is not sharp enough to cut through the hair, causing painful scraping and tugging. As such, men with heavier beards are more likely to suffer from itching, stinging, redness, nicks and cuts.
In order to ease the discomfort associated with shaving a heavier beard, the beard must be softened, lifted, and the skin must be protected through a shaving medium. However, most products use ingredients that are high in alkali that help soften and lift the beard but leave the skin dry, tight and irritated.
To help soften and lift the beard without damaging skin, look for pre-shave or shaving products that include Camphor, a natural antiseptic that helps firm skin to lift the beard, Clove Flower Oil, which helps open the pores while softening the beard to prevent scraping and tugging of the hair, Glycerin and Sodium Hyaluronate to add additional lubricity during shaving, and soothing Wheat Germ Extract and Yeast Extract to combat irritation and redness.
Shaving with the grain/shaving the head
In addition to using the correct products for skin condition and beard type, it is crucial to shave with the grain (the same direction the hair shaft grows). The direction of beard growth can be different all over the face, and will most likely be completely different on the neck. Because each client will have a unique grain (facial hair) pattern, it is critical to note the direction. Often times, the lower area of the neck will demonstrate a change in the grain, where hair will shift from growing downward and transition towards growing away from the chin or even upward. This can also happen on the sideburn area. If a man has a heavy, coarse beard, it is ok for him to shave against the grain, but only after first shaving with the grain, when the hair is shorter and less likely to curl back in on itself. After the initial shave with the grain, all necessary shaving mediums should be re-applied before shaving against the grain.
The pressure applied during the shave process is also critical to the prevention of nicks, cuts, razor burn, irritation and redness. Applying too much pressure won’t provide a closer shave: it will just facilitate the removal of skin cells, leading to irritation. If the razor is sharp enough, minimal pressure will be sufficient for removing hair. Use a steady, constant motion when shaving, making each shave stroke around 1 to 2 inches long.
The same rules that apply to shaving the face and neck apply to shaving the head. Attention to the direction of the grain is also important when shaving the head.
New Dermalogica Shave delivers a better shave through skin health
Male clients must understand that when selecting a shaving system, the affect of products on skin is just as important to consider as a preference for gel versus cream. And if they are truly looking to clear existing skin problems and maintain skin health in the most efficient method possible, it is necessary to do more than shave.
Dermalogica Shave allows skin care professionals to outline a straight-forward, three-step regimen that includes products for the Pre-shave, Shave, and Post-shave process. Each step acts as a progression, designed to help further eliminate the top skin care concerns brought on by shaving. This system will deliver smoother, healthier skin that experiences a drastic decline in reactions to shaving.
Pre-Shave:
Cleanse skin, soften beard, and minimize irritation, ingrown hairs, nicks and cuts. The cleansing portion of Pre-Shave helps remove bacteria, surface oils and debris that, if left on the skin before shaving, would impede the closeness of the shave and result in an uneven shave. The protective portion of Pre-Shave helps soften the beard while providing additional protection from the razor without impacting the closeness of the shave.
Shave:
Whether a gel, cream or water-soluble oil, it must protect skin’s natural moisture barrier. Shaving ingredients must help lift and soften the beard and protect skin from the blade without impeding razor closeness.
Post-Shave:
Application of post-shave products will cool and soothe skin while alleviating dryness, itchiness, redness, ingrown hairs, bumps and damage caused by skin-aging UV rays.
All Shave products are suitable for use on the head. Let me know if you would like any product samples.
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