Try Something New!!!
This month, try a service you have never experienced with Feroche Esthetics and receive 25% off that service. Call Bethany at 402-709-6245 to book your appointment. New menu options available online the beginning of the month.
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Wednesday, March 31, 2010
Did You Know?
• Dermalogica does not contain: mineral oil, lanolin, artificial fragrance or colorants, SD alcohol or Formaldehyde.
• When reading ingredient labels, ingredients more than 1% must be listed in descending order.
• Don’t fall for the hype. There is no cure for wrinkles and no topical application of a product can provide you with the same results received from a cosmetic procedure performed by a physician such as Botox.
• After the age of 30, every year you lose 1% of collagen in your skin.
• When it comes to treating hyperpigmentation on the skin, the easiest to treat with faster results, is years of skin exposure. The hardest is hyperpigmentation caused by hormones.
• Acneic clients, who are genetically predisposed, have four to five times more build up of dead skin cells.
• Clients who have cold sores should only receive treatments two weeks after it goes away, otherwise it can come back with a vengeance.
• When skin is dehydrated, water escapes and bacteria goes in causing inflammation. So be sure to keep your skin hydrated.
• When reading ingredient labels, ingredients more than 1% must be listed in descending order.
• Don’t fall for the hype. There is no cure for wrinkles and no topical application of a product can provide you with the same results received from a cosmetic procedure performed by a physician such as Botox.
• After the age of 30, every year you lose 1% of collagen in your skin.
• When it comes to treating hyperpigmentation on the skin, the easiest to treat with faster results, is years of skin exposure. The hardest is hyperpigmentation caused by hormones.
• Acneic clients, who are genetically predisposed, have four to five times more build up of dead skin cells.
• Clients who have cold sores should only receive treatments two weeks after it goes away, otherwise it can come back with a vengeance.
• When skin is dehydrated, water escapes and bacteria goes in causing inflammation. So be sure to keep your skin hydrated.
What's In My Cabinet?
Feroche Esthetics Newsletter April 2010 Vol. #1, Issue #3 Excerpt
I receive many compliments on my skin. To figure out what works best for my skins needs I had to go to esthetics school and experiment with different products. My job is to make it much easier for you.
I have dry, sensitive and hormonally acneic skin. Through the years I have tried many different products from: Clean and Clear, Neutrogena, Oil of Olay, Avon, Estee Lauder, Clinique, BioElements, Murad and Dermalogica. Now I mainly use Dermalogica. It seems to be the only product line that works for my skin all of the time.
Depending on my daily skin needs, my at home regimen includes any one of these products:
Cleanser: Special Cleansing Gel (majority of the time), Clearing Skin Wash (during the hormonal times or when I fall asleep with my makeup on), Ultra-Calming Cleanser (when I have a reaction to something), Skin Resurfacing Cleanser (left over from AgeSmart kit).
Exfoliant: AgeSmart Multi-Vitamin Thermafoliant (favorite granular exfoliant), Daily Microfoliant (enzyme exfoliant) and BioElements Quick Refiner (chemical exfoliant). Next I want to try Daily Resurfacer (chemical exfoliant) on a regular basis. It’s a higher strength exfoliant.
Serums: MediBac Overnight Clearing Gel, Clean Start Hit the Spot and Intensive Eye Repair. I am trying out ChromoWhite Extreme C on my hyperpigmentation.
Moisturizer: Skin Smoothing Cream (summer), Intensive Moisture Balance (winter), and AgeSmart Dynamic Skin Recovery SPF 30 (both).
Sunscreen: Solar Defense Booster SPF 30 (love it!)
In the shower: 
Body wash: Dermalogica’s Conditioning Body Wash (like the scent and the natural ingredients, but not the price). Next I’m going to try Dove’s new nutrium body wash. It’s just hard for me to find a scent I like with regular store brands.
Body lotion/cream: Dermalogica’s Ultra Rich Body Cream (really like this product so far). Next I’m going to try the new products from Gold Bond. I’ve tried a lot of body lotions/cream. I think the Ultra Rich Body Cream feels the best on my skin.
I am trying the new Aquafresh iso-active toothpaste. I like the paste but not the mess. It oozes from the container even after you clean it.
What Are Goose Bumps?
Feroche Esthetics Newsletter April 2010 Vol. #1, Issue #3 Excerpt
I thought this was very interesting when I first learned about it. The arrectores pilorum (singular arrector pili) are small muscles which connect the hair follicles to the dermis. Contractions of these muscles cause the hairs to stand on end a.k.a. goose bumps. In addition, contraction of this muscle is involuntary. Stresses such as cold, fear, etc. may stimulate the sympathetic nervous system and thus cause the contraction, but the muscle is not under conscious control.
Furthermore, contraction of the muscles has a number of different purposes. Its principle function in the majority of mammals is to provide insulation: air becomes trapped between the erect hairs, helping the animal retain heat. Erection of the porcupine’s long, thick hairs causes the animal to become more intimidating, scaring predators. Pressure exerted by the muscle may cause sebum (oil) to be forced along the hair follicle towards the surface, protecting the hair.
The effectiveness of the muscles' action in humans has been questioned, as humans have relatively little body hair to allow for thermal insulation.
Hair Growth Cycle
Feroche Esthetics Newsletter April 2010 Vol. #1, Issue #3
You may have heard me say that there are three stages of hair growth: anagen, catagen, and telogen. Two hairs can be growing next to each other and be at different stages of growth. It takes approximately 4 to13 weeks for hair to grow from the papilla to the surface of the skin. Repeat visits are normally necessary to get hair on the same growth cycle, eventually increasing your time between waxing treatments.
- Anagen-the growth stage during which new hair is produced. New keratinized cells are manufactured in the hair follicle during the anagen stage. Activity is greater in the hair bulb, which pushes down into the dermis and swells with cell mitosis.
- Catagen-is the regression (falling out) stage of hair growth. In the Catagen stage, the hair shaft grows upward and detaches itself from the bulb.
- Telogen-during the telogen stage, the hair is at its full size and is erect in the follicle. It shows above the skin’s surface. The hair bulb is not active, and the hair falls out. The bulb then moves upward into the dermis and begins to grow a new hair. The cycle then begins again.
Cell Renewal Factor
Feroche Esthetics Newsletter April 2010 Vol. #1, Issue #3 Excerpt
It is important to exfoliate in order to increase your cell renewal factor (CRF), or cell turnover rate. The CRF keeps skin cells from building up. The CRF process slows down with age.
The average CRF for:
It is important to exfoliate in order to increase your cell renewal factor (CRF), or cell turnover rate. The CRF keeps skin cells from building up. The CRF process slows down with age.
The average CRF for:
- Babies 14 days
- Teenagers 21 to 28 days
- Middle-age 28 to 42
- 50 and older 42 to 84 days
Factors that influence CRF include:
- Genetics
- Natural environment
- Medical history
- Lifestyle
- Personal care
To help reduce the signs of aging, rough skin, clogged pores and ingrown hairs, stick to a routine where you exfoliate your face and body twice a week.
Shave 101
As one of my male clients said in a sarcastic whine the other day “men have needs too”, I have included this segment for you. Women can learn a thing or two too. The following are facts provided by Dermalogica's Education Center.
What happens when skin is shaved?
Simply put, shaving is a form of mechanical exfoliation. Shaving triggers a high level of visible irritation and can serve as a form of over-exfoliation, as well as lead to a compromised lipid barrier. When the skin’s lipid barrier is compromised, there is an increase in moisture loss, which leads to dry, scaly, cracked skin, and a sensitized skin condition. Further dehydration can occur in the lower layers of the epidermis when the skin’s lipid barrier is compromised. A dehydrated skin leads to inefficiencies in the physiology of the skin, in particular, enzymes responsible for normal desquamation. Skin dryness can increase skin’s susceptibility to a various number of shaving concerns, including Pseudofolliculitis barbae (ingrown hairs and razor bumps), razor burn and sensitivity.
The top shaving concerns include:
• Pseudofolliculitis barbae
• Razor burn
• Tough, heavy beards
Pseudofolliculitis barbae (Ingrown Hairs and Razor Bumps)
What happens when skin is shaved?
Simply put, shaving is a form of mechanical exfoliation. Shaving triggers a high level of visible irritation and can serve as a form of over-exfoliation, as well as lead to a compromised lipid barrier. When the skin’s lipid barrier is compromised, there is an increase in moisture loss, which leads to dry, scaly, cracked skin, and a sensitized skin condition. Further dehydration can occur in the lower layers of the epidermis when the skin’s lipid barrier is compromised. A dehydrated skin leads to inefficiencies in the physiology of the skin, in particular, enzymes responsible for normal desquamation. Skin dryness can increase skin’s susceptibility to a various number of shaving concerns, including Pseudofolliculitis barbae (ingrown hairs and razor bumps), razor burn and sensitivity.
The top shaving concerns include:
• Pseudofolliculitis barbae
• Razor burn
• Tough, heavy beards
Pseudofolliculitis barbae (Ingrown Hairs and Razor Bumps)
Ingrown hairs manifest on skin when hair is cut, and the hair grows back in at an improper angle. The process of cutting the end of the hair shaft through shaving can force hair back into its follicle, or even cause hair to double over on itself, re-entering the same follicle and growing inward instead of exiting the surface. The hair shaft can also grow and enter another follicle.
The body recognizes the ingrown hair as a foreign body (similar to the way it would a splinter), and triggers an inflammatory response that includes redness, itchiness and a raised area that resembles a pimple that can fill with pus. To help prevent ingrown hairs, start by exfoliating with physical and chemical exfoliants prior to shaving. Physical exfoliants including micro-fine Silica beads will help effectively exfoliate and prep the skin’s surface and lift hairs. Chemical exfoliants including Lactic Acid and Salicylic Acid will help remove dead skin cells, lift ingrown hairs above the skin line, and soften and smooth skin. Retinol will also help gently exfoliate dulling skin cells from the skin’s surface. Antiseptic essential oils of Tea Tree and Eucalyptus help clear pores to prevent clogging while purifying skin.
Razor Burn
Razor burn can occur a number of ways when skin is shaved incorrectly: when skin is shaved too closely and too quickly, when shaving with a blunt blade, when the blade is not rinsed enough between shaving strokes (leaving build-up on the blade), when too much skin is removed during the process, when dry shaving or not using enough lubrication between skin and razor, when shaving against the grain, or when shaving over already irritated or sensitized areas.
Razor burn is inflammation of the skin that we could classify as Irritant Contact Dermatitis. Irritant Contact Dermatitis is a reaction triggered by certain substances or ingredients, constant friction (razor against skin) or even water. The symptoms are burning, itching, stinging and redness. Razor burn can be as mild as a few hours of discomfort and reddened skin or can last for days, resembling a rash or scratch that remains itchy and inflamed. It can even manifest into infected breakouts or blisters.
Continued irritation or assault causing inflammation will result in prematurely aged skin. In addition to all of the symptoms that a sensitive or sensitized skin may experience, the sufferer will also see the signs of premature aging on the skin. Ingredients including Wheat Germ, Yeast Extract and Silicones will help protect the skin’s natural barrier lipid layer, helping to combat irritation, reddening and mechanical peeling associated with razor burn. Aloe Vera will calm skin while promoting skin repair, and Soybean Oil, Vitamin E and essential oils including Sambucus (Elder Tree) and Achillea (Yarrow) reinforce skin’s natural protective barrier while fighting free radical damage.
Tough, Heavy Beards
Depending upon genetics, ethnicity and hormones, males may have a heavy or tough beard. Heavier beards are more challenging to shave, as the hair shaft more frequently clogs the razor, or the razor is not sharp enough to cut through the hair, causing painful scraping and tugging. As such, men with heavier beards are more likely to suffer from itching, stinging, redness, nicks and cuts.
In order to ease the discomfort associated with shaving a heavier beard, the beard must be softened, lifted, and the skin must be protected through a shaving medium. However, most products use ingredients that are high in alkali that help soften and lift the beard but leave the skin dry, tight and irritated.
To help soften and lift the beard without damaging skin, look for pre-shave or shaving products that include Camphor, a natural antiseptic that helps firm skin to lift the beard, Clove Flower Oil, which helps open the pores while softening the beard to prevent scraping and tugging of the hair, Glycerin and Sodium Hyaluronate to add additional lubricity during shaving, and soothing Wheat Germ Extract and Yeast Extract to combat irritation and redness.
Shaving with the grain/shaving the head
In addition to using the correct products for skin condition and beard type, it is crucial to shave with the grain (the same direction the hair shaft grows). The direction of beard growth can be different all over the face, and will most likely be completely different on the neck. Because each client will have a unique grain (facial hair) pattern, it is critical to note the direction. Often times, the lower area of the neck will demonstrate a change in the grain, where hair will shift from growing downward and transition towards growing away from the chin or even upward. This can also happen on the sideburn area. If a man has a heavy, coarse beard, it is ok for him to shave against the grain, but only after first shaving with the grain, when the hair is shorter and less likely to curl back in on itself. After the initial shave with the grain, all necessary shaving mediums should be re-applied before shaving against the grain.
The pressure applied during the shave process is also critical to the prevention of nicks, cuts, razor burn, irritation and redness. Applying too much pressure won’t provide a closer shave: it will just facilitate the removal of skin cells, leading to irritation. If the razor is sharp enough, minimal pressure will be sufficient for removing hair. Use a steady, constant motion when shaving, making each shave stroke around 1 to 2 inches long.
The same rules that apply to shaving the face and neck apply to shaving the head. Attention to the direction of the grain is also important when shaving the head.
New Dermalogica Shave delivers a better shave through skin health
Male clients must understand that when selecting a shaving system, the affect of products on skin is just as important to consider as a preference for gel versus cream. And if they are truly looking to clear existing skin problems and maintain skin health in the most efficient method possible, it is necessary to do more than shave.
Dermalogica Shave allows skin care professionals to outline a straight-forward, three-step regimen that includes products for the Pre-shave, Shave, and Post-shave process. Each step acts as a progression, designed to help further eliminate the top skin care concerns brought on by shaving. This system will deliver smoother, healthier skin that experiences a drastic decline in reactions to shaving.
Pre-Shave:
Cleanse skin, soften beard, and minimize irritation, ingrown hairs, nicks and cuts. The cleansing portion of Pre-Shave helps remove bacteria, surface oils and debris that, if left on the skin before shaving, would impede the closeness of the shave and result in an uneven shave. The protective portion of Pre-Shave helps soften the beard while providing additional protection from the razor without impacting the closeness of the shave.
Shave:
Whether a gel, cream or water-soluble oil, it must protect skin’s natural moisture barrier. Shaving ingredients must help lift and soften the beard and protect skin from the blade without impeding razor closeness.
Post-Shave:
Application of post-shave products will cool and soothe skin while alleviating dryness, itchiness, redness, ingrown hairs, bumps and damage caused by skin-aging UV rays.
All Shave products are suitable for use on the head. Let me know if you would like any product samples.
The body recognizes the ingrown hair as a foreign body (similar to the way it would a splinter), and triggers an inflammatory response that includes redness, itchiness and a raised area that resembles a pimple that can fill with pus. To help prevent ingrown hairs, start by exfoliating with physical and chemical exfoliants prior to shaving. Physical exfoliants including micro-fine Silica beads will help effectively exfoliate and prep the skin’s surface and lift hairs. Chemical exfoliants including Lactic Acid and Salicylic Acid will help remove dead skin cells, lift ingrown hairs above the skin line, and soften and smooth skin. Retinol will also help gently exfoliate dulling skin cells from the skin’s surface. Antiseptic essential oils of Tea Tree and Eucalyptus help clear pores to prevent clogging while purifying skin.
Razor Burn
Razor burn can occur a number of ways when skin is shaved incorrectly: when skin is shaved too closely and too quickly, when shaving with a blunt blade, when the blade is not rinsed enough between shaving strokes (leaving build-up on the blade), when too much skin is removed during the process, when dry shaving or not using enough lubrication between skin and razor, when shaving against the grain, or when shaving over already irritated or sensitized areas.
Razor burn is inflammation of the skin that we could classify as Irritant Contact Dermatitis. Irritant Contact Dermatitis is a reaction triggered by certain substances or ingredients, constant friction (razor against skin) or even water. The symptoms are burning, itching, stinging and redness. Razor burn can be as mild as a few hours of discomfort and reddened skin or can last for days, resembling a rash or scratch that remains itchy and inflamed. It can even manifest into infected breakouts or blisters.
Continued irritation or assault causing inflammation will result in prematurely aged skin. In addition to all of the symptoms that a sensitive or sensitized skin may experience, the sufferer will also see the signs of premature aging on the skin. Ingredients including Wheat Germ, Yeast Extract and Silicones will help protect the skin’s natural barrier lipid layer, helping to combat irritation, reddening and mechanical peeling associated with razor burn. Aloe Vera will calm skin while promoting skin repair, and Soybean Oil, Vitamin E and essential oils including Sambucus (Elder Tree) and Achillea (Yarrow) reinforce skin’s natural protective barrier while fighting free radical damage.
Tough, Heavy Beards
Depending upon genetics, ethnicity and hormones, males may have a heavy or tough beard. Heavier beards are more challenging to shave, as the hair shaft more frequently clogs the razor, or the razor is not sharp enough to cut through the hair, causing painful scraping and tugging. As such, men with heavier beards are more likely to suffer from itching, stinging, redness, nicks and cuts.
In order to ease the discomfort associated with shaving a heavier beard, the beard must be softened, lifted, and the skin must be protected through a shaving medium. However, most products use ingredients that are high in alkali that help soften and lift the beard but leave the skin dry, tight and irritated.
To help soften and lift the beard without damaging skin, look for pre-shave or shaving products that include Camphor, a natural antiseptic that helps firm skin to lift the beard, Clove Flower Oil, which helps open the pores while softening the beard to prevent scraping and tugging of the hair, Glycerin and Sodium Hyaluronate to add additional lubricity during shaving, and soothing Wheat Germ Extract and Yeast Extract to combat irritation and redness.
Shaving with the grain/shaving the head
In addition to using the correct products for skin condition and beard type, it is crucial to shave with the grain (the same direction the hair shaft grows). The direction of beard growth can be different all over the face, and will most likely be completely different on the neck. Because each client will have a unique grain (facial hair) pattern, it is critical to note the direction. Often times, the lower area of the neck will demonstrate a change in the grain, where hair will shift from growing downward and transition towards growing away from the chin or even upward. This can also happen on the sideburn area. If a man has a heavy, coarse beard, it is ok for him to shave against the grain, but only after first shaving with the grain, when the hair is shorter and less likely to curl back in on itself. After the initial shave with the grain, all necessary shaving mediums should be re-applied before shaving against the grain.
The pressure applied during the shave process is also critical to the prevention of nicks, cuts, razor burn, irritation and redness. Applying too much pressure won’t provide a closer shave: it will just facilitate the removal of skin cells, leading to irritation. If the razor is sharp enough, minimal pressure will be sufficient for removing hair. Use a steady, constant motion when shaving, making each shave stroke around 1 to 2 inches long.
The same rules that apply to shaving the face and neck apply to shaving the head. Attention to the direction of the grain is also important when shaving the head.
New Dermalogica Shave delivers a better shave through skin health
Male clients must understand that when selecting a shaving system, the affect of products on skin is just as important to consider as a preference for gel versus cream. And if they are truly looking to clear existing skin problems and maintain skin health in the most efficient method possible, it is necessary to do more than shave.
Dermalogica Shave allows skin care professionals to outline a straight-forward, three-step regimen that includes products for the Pre-shave, Shave, and Post-shave process. Each step acts as a progression, designed to help further eliminate the top skin care concerns brought on by shaving. This system will deliver smoother, healthier skin that experiences a drastic decline in reactions to shaving.
Pre-Shave:
Cleanse skin, soften beard, and minimize irritation, ingrown hairs, nicks and cuts. The cleansing portion of Pre-Shave helps remove bacteria, surface oils and debris that, if left on the skin before shaving, would impede the closeness of the shave and result in an uneven shave. The protective portion of Pre-Shave helps soften the beard while providing additional protection from the razor without impacting the closeness of the shave.
Shave:
Whether a gel, cream or water-soluble oil, it must protect skin’s natural moisture barrier. Shaving ingredients must help lift and soften the beard and protect skin from the blade without impeding razor closeness.
Post-Shave:
Application of post-shave products will cool and soothe skin while alleviating dryness, itchiness, redness, ingrown hairs, bumps and damage caused by skin-aging UV rays.
All Shave products are suitable for use on the head. Let me know if you would like any product samples.
AGE smart
Feroche Esthetics Newsletter March 2010 Vol. #1, Issue #2 ExcerptSo how can I tell you about the aging process and not put you to sleep with all the scientific mumbo jumbo? I’ll try to keep it short and to the point. If you want the nitty gritty just let me know and I’ll provide you with it, all 44 pages. The majority of this excerpt contains facts provided by Dermalogica's The Book.
According to a recent study by the American Academy of Dermatology, 94% of women are confused by anti-aging treatments on the market. Therefore, consumers are becoming much more product savvy since they are tired of spending premium dollars on false promises.
Wrinkles, uneven pigmentation, loss of skin tone, broken capillaries, dehydration are all physical manifestation of skin aging. Age related skin changes are the result of genetically-programmed changes (intrinsic factors) and environmental wear-and-tear on the skin (extrinsic factors). While both influence the skin’s structure and function, extrinsic factors cause more pronounced changes. Estimates state that 80-90% of what we see on our skin as adults is the result of exposure to daylight, which is referred to as photoaging. Manifestations of photoaging include an increase in wrinkle formation, a loss of tension and elasticity, degeneration of the vascular supply and skin thickness, a reduction in the water-binding properties of the skin, dilated capillaries (telangiectasis), hyperpigmentation and other skin discoloration. Bethany says: That is why it is very important to wear sunscreen and to avoid tanning beds.
While scientists attribute the majority of these structural changes to exposure to ultraviolet (UV) radiation, it has only been in recent years that they have come to understand the actual biochemical triggers that instigate these changes. These are chemical reactions that occur within the skin and include:
• Generation of Reactive Oxygen Species (ROS)
Also known as free radicals (an electron that has lost its oxygen molecule). During times of environmental stress, ROS levels can increase causing damage to cell structures. This is the major cause of degenerative disorders including aging and disease. Studies have shown that UV-induced damage to the skin is in part caused by ROS. Lipid peroxidation also results from ROS damage to cell membranes, leading to premature aging, skin cancer and cell death.
• Glycation leading to Advanced Glycation End-products (AGEs).
We now know that collagen and elastin proteins are highly susceptible to an internal chemical reaction within the body called glycation. This is a non-enzyme mediated reaction that takes place between free amino groups in proteins and a sugar such as glucose. The same glucose that provides energy for our cells can react with proteins (such as collagen), resulting in the formation of AGEs and ROSs; these contribute to cross-linking of protein fibers, the loss of elasticity and changes in the dermis associated with the aging process. We now know that inflammation is the catalyst critical to the aging process and many diseases. For example diabetics have characteristically high levels of sugar in their blood and suffer from numerous health issues which emanate from the formation of AGEs in the body. Hence, diabetes is considered a disease of accelerated aging due to the inflammation that arises from the formation of AGEs. This is not restricted to diabetes; muscle weakness, heart disease and many diseases of the brain are associated with glycation. Scientists now believe that reducing glycation is a means of slowing the aging process and disease formation.
• Activation of metalloproteinase enzymes (Matrix Metalloproteinases or MMPs) with a subsequent decline in collagen biosynthesis.
MMPs are enzymes that control tissue degradation in the dermis. When stimulated (by internal growth factors, inflammatory modulators and exposure to UV radiation) they break down the collagen and elastin in the dermis inhibiting any new collagen formation.
What is happening below the surface of the skin?
• Biosynthesis of new collagen and elastin slows.
• Cross-linking of collagen.
• Impaired barrier function leads to dehydration.
• Cell turn-over and cell renewal slows.
• Epidermis thins, Stratum Corneum thickens.
• Erratic melanin formation (age spots, hyper/hypopigmentation)
• Inflammation
What can be done to help control the biochemical reactions that lead to skin aging?
• Antioxidants to fight Reactive Oxygen Species (ROS-free radical) damage
Normally the body can handle free radical with the use of antioxidants. Antioxidants include vitamins, enzymes and even proteins that can be found naturally in the body or ingested as part of our diet. If antioxidants are in short supply, or if the free radical damage is excessive, damage to the cells and tissue will occur.
• Inhibit MMPs
Natural MMP inhibitors exist in skin, but as expected, they decline with age. MMPs may be inhibited by topical agents, such as retinoids. For best results, one should use a product that controls MMPs while stimulating collagen, elastin and Hyaluronic Acid biosynthesis.
• Create “sugar traps” or cross-link breakers to control the formation of AGEs
Controlling the formation of AGEs is a relatively new field of research; apparently the best means of controlling AGEs is to interfere with their formation. Studies have shown that a peptide molecule known as Arginine/Lysine polypeptide can bind sugar, preventing it from reacting with proteins and triggering cross-linking of collagen. This peptide molecule acts as a sugar trap, binding to the sugar in the body, making it unable to react with proteins.
At the International Dermal Institute, they have researched the changes that occur during skin aging and what they can realistically do for this pre-existing condition. Instead of focusing on treating just the manifestations of skin aging (wrinkles, hyperpigmentation, loss of elasticity, etc), they focused their efforts on understanding how they may impact the biochemical reactions that manifest these changes to stop them before they start. This research has resulted in the development of AGE Smart, a system of retail and professional products designed to specifically treat and control the structural manifestation associated with skin aging and biological triggers that lead to these changes, as well as treat the visible signs of skin aging so skin is smoother, firmer and healthier. Keeping with the Dermalogica commitment to purity, all products are non-comedogenic and free of lanolin, mineral oil, S.D. alcohol, artificial colors and fragrances, and are packaged in hygienic, contamination-free packaging.
Back To Basics
Feroche Esthetics Newsletter March 2010, Vol. #1, Issue #2 Excerpt
By request, let’s get back to skin care basics. For most, a complete at home skin care regimen consists of:
• Cleanse
This should be done in the morning, after a work-out, and before you go to bed in order to remove makeup, dirt, oil, sweat, pollution, etc. If cleansing in the shower, your skin may benefit from cleansing after you shampoo and condition your hair.
• Exfoliate
This should be done twice a week to remove dead skin cells for fresh healthy looking skin. Different types of exfoliants are available depending on your preference (granular, chemical, enzyme or mechanical ie. with a brush). Don’t forget to exfoliate your body too!
• Masque
A treatment masque can be used twice a week to help with certain skin care needs. Example: a clay masque for oily skin/ black heads or a moisturizing masque for dry skin.
• Serum or Treatment product
Depending on the product’s ingredients, apply in the morning and/or at night. It can be used to treat certain skin care issues such as acne or signs of aging.
• Moisturizer
It is important to moisturize in order to achieve overall oil/ water balance. Don’t forget to moisturize your body too!
• Sunscreen
This is the most useful anti aging product you could use. An SPF of 30 is recommended. Feroche can provide Dermalogica sunscreen for most skin types/conditions.
By request, let’s get back to skin care basics. For most, a complete at home skin care regimen consists of:
• Cleanse
This should be done in the morning, after a work-out, and before you go to bed in order to remove makeup, dirt, oil, sweat, pollution, etc. If cleansing in the shower, your skin may benefit from cleansing after you shampoo and condition your hair.
• Exfoliate
This should be done twice a week to remove dead skin cells for fresh healthy looking skin. Different types of exfoliants are available depending on your preference (granular, chemical, enzyme or mechanical ie. with a brush). Don’t forget to exfoliate your body too!
• Masque
A treatment masque can be used twice a week to help with certain skin care needs. Example: a clay masque for oily skin/ black heads or a moisturizing masque for dry skin.
• Serum or Treatment product
Depending on the product’s ingredients, apply in the morning and/or at night. It can be used to treat certain skin care issues such as acne or signs of aging.
• Moisturizer
It is important to moisturize in order to achieve overall oil/ water balance. Don’t forget to moisturize your body too!
• Sunscreen
This is the most useful anti aging product you could use. An SPF of 30 is recommended. Feroche can provide Dermalogica sunscreen for most skin types/conditions.
Skin Type vs Skin Condition
Feroche Esthetics Newsletter February 2010 Vol. #1, Issue #2 Excerpt
A common mistake made by both client and Skin Therapist is not knowing the difference between skin type and skin condition. These are two different things and must be determined by the Skin Therapist.
A skin type is determined genetically by our parents and can be measured by the amount of oil secretion in the skin. Over-active sebaceous activity will produce an oily skin, and under-active sebaceous glands will produce a dry skin. The skin’s reactivity, capillary (small blood vessels sometimes visible under the skin) activity and sensitivity can also be genetically determined.
Factors that contribute to a skin condition can be surgery, medication, stress and illness. Skin conditions will affect all skin types and will regularly change, possibly from day-to-day. The Skin Therapist assesses the skin before every professional treatment (Face Mapping/Consultation) to find out what conditions you are experiencing, and to address this in the treatment and when recommending product.
Skin Types:
A common mistake made by both client and Skin Therapist is not knowing the difference between skin type and skin condition. These are two different things and must be determined by the Skin Therapist.
A skin type is determined genetically by our parents and can be measured by the amount of oil secretion in the skin. Over-active sebaceous activity will produce an oily skin, and under-active sebaceous glands will produce a dry skin. The skin’s reactivity, capillary (small blood vessels sometimes visible under the skin) activity and sensitivity can also be genetically determined.
Factors that contribute to a skin condition can be surgery, medication, stress and illness. Skin conditions will affect all skin types and will regularly change, possibly from day-to-day. The Skin Therapist assesses the skin before every professional treatment (Face Mapping/Consultation) to find out what conditions you are experiencing, and to address this in the treatment and when recommending product.
Skin Types:
- Normal/Combination
- Oil dry
- Oily
- Acne
- Sensitive/Rosacea
Skin Conditions:
- Dehydration
- Sensitized
- Aging
- Pigmentation
- Congestion/Breakouts
Understanding Adult Acne
Feroche Esthetics Newsletter February 2010 Vol. #1, Issue #1 Excerpt
A common misconception is that acne only affects teenagers. But more than ever before, adults are suffering with oily and acneic skin conditions. The following are facts provided by Dermalogica’s The Book.
Clinical studies indicate that between 40 and 55 percent of the adult population in the 20 to 40 age group are diagnosed with a low grade, persistent acne and oily skin.
Clinical studies indicate that between 40 and 55 percent of the adult population in the 20 to 40 age group are diagnosed with a low grade, persistent acne and oily skin.
According to the Journal of American Academy of Dermatology, 54% of women older than age 25 have some facial acne, which is most likely attributed to hormonal fluctuations that trigger excess sebum (oil) resulting in acne. Acne arising in adulthood is more likely to be inflammatory with lesions predominantly located around the mouth, chin and jaw line. Likewise, adults often have sensitized skin, or a combination of skin conditions in addition to their acne, which makes treatment more challenging.
What are the four main biochemical triggers that contribute to acne?
What are the four main biochemical triggers that contribute to acne?
The primary catalyst for adult acne is chronic stress. Balancing personal and professional responsibilities makes this generation of adults the most time-compressed generation in history. The constant, continued and heightened level of stress throws our adrenal glands (sits on top of kidneys, releases hormones) into overdrive, which in turn can boost sebum (oil) production, setting the stage for acne development.
While stress creates the trigger for acne, there are four main factors that contribute to the development of acne: overactive sebaceous glands (the production of too much oil), dead skin cell accumulation, bacteria and inflammation.
While stress creates the trigger for acne, there are four main factors that contribute to the development of acne: overactive sebaceous glands (the production of too much oil), dead skin cell accumulation, bacteria and inflammation.
Despite which form of acne is prevalent, it is known that sebum production or oil is the catalyst for the series of events that result in acne or breakouts. Often times, a client will not think they have even a mild form of acne and will attribute their skin condition to excess oiliness. Excess sebum is often associated with enlarged pores, a tendency toward follicle (pore) congestion and an oily T-zone.
Cell accumulation and Bacteria
In a normal follicle (pore), dead surface cells are continually sloughing from the epidermal canal and are deposited at the surface of the skin. However, when acne is present, a proliferation of cells occurs at the neck of the follicle, accompanied by excess sebum that causes the cells to stick together along with bacteria; together the sebum and cells lead to the formation of an impaction plug that provides a nice environment for the bacteria to thrive. Bethany says: that is one of the reasons why it is important to exfoliate.
Inflammation
Inflamed lesions may also result, whereby the follicle wall ruptures forming a papule (pimple). If the break in the follicle is close to the surface, a pustule (juicy pimple) results, if it is deeper a nodule forms. In some cases, a membrane entraps the infection and a cyst develops.
Regardless, enzymes are stimulated to help repair the damaged tissue and white blood cells invade the area: this is when inflammation sets in. Bethany says: you do not want to try to “pop” cystic acne because it could spread the infection under the skin. Unfortunately you should only treat and be patient.
What can be done to help treat, clear and prevent adult acne?
In order to control acne, we must interrupt the degeneration of the follicle by affecting the four main contributing factors. The International Dermal Institute has researched several new ingredients that are extremely effective in controlling acne. These ingredients can be found in Dermalogica’s MediBac Clearing system.
In a normal follicle (pore), dead surface cells are continually sloughing from the epidermal canal and are deposited at the surface of the skin. However, when acne is present, a proliferation of cells occurs at the neck of the follicle, accompanied by excess sebum that causes the cells to stick together along with bacteria; together the sebum and cells lead to the formation of an impaction plug that provides a nice environment for the bacteria to thrive. Bethany says: that is one of the reasons why it is important to exfoliate.
Inflammation
Inflamed lesions may also result, whereby the follicle wall ruptures forming a papule (pimple). If the break in the follicle is close to the surface, a pustule (juicy pimple) results, if it is deeper a nodule forms. In some cases, a membrane entraps the infection and a cyst develops.
Regardless, enzymes are stimulated to help repair the damaged tissue and white blood cells invade the area: this is when inflammation sets in. Bethany says: you do not want to try to “pop” cystic acne because it could spread the infection under the skin. Unfortunately you should only treat and be patient.
What can be done to help treat, clear and prevent adult acne?
In order to control acne, we must interrupt the degeneration of the follicle by affecting the four main contributing factors. The International Dermal Institute has researched several new ingredients that are extremely effective in controlling acne. These ingredients can be found in Dermalogica’s MediBac Clearing system.
Their research has shown that by inhibiting the activity of overactive sebaceous glands, we not only eliminate the food source for the bacteria, but we also eliminate oily shine and create a more esthetically pleasing appearance on the skin.
To control cell accumulation we need to stimulate natural exfoliation superficially as well as in the follicle lining. By exfoliating to remove surface cells that have not been shed, we can help eliminate the impaction of follicles which triggers the early stages of comedone (blackhead) formation.
By controlling bacteria on the skin’s surface and in the follicle, we can control the source of fatty acids that contribute to irritation. To help keep inflammation caused by adult acne under control, we must consider the application of topical anti-inflammatory repair agents, botanicals, and humectants to help the healing process and soothe inflamed skin.
Dermalogica’s new MediBac Clearing system works to treat, clear and prevent adult acne while addressing the needs of adult skin. The MediBac Clearing system controls acne without compromising skin’s integrity, which means skin is consistently clear and healthier. Each product, with its unique acne-fighting and clearing ingredients, is designed to be layered upon the skin to provide around-the-clock, maximum control of the four main factors that contribute to acne.
To control cell accumulation we need to stimulate natural exfoliation superficially as well as in the follicle lining. By exfoliating to remove surface cells that have not been shed, we can help eliminate the impaction of follicles which triggers the early stages of comedone (blackhead) formation.
By controlling bacteria on the skin’s surface and in the follicle, we can control the source of fatty acids that contribute to irritation. To help keep inflammation caused by adult acne under control, we must consider the application of topical anti-inflammatory repair agents, botanicals, and humectants to help the healing process and soothe inflamed skin.
Dermalogica’s new MediBac Clearing system works to treat, clear and prevent adult acne while addressing the needs of adult skin. The MediBac Clearing system controls acne without compromising skin’s integrity, which means skin is consistently clear and healthier. Each product, with its unique acne-fighting and clearing ingredients, is designed to be layered upon the skin to provide around-the-clock, maximum control of the four main factors that contribute to acne.
As Seen On T.V.
Feroche Esthetics Newsletter February2010 Vol.#1, Issue#1 Excerpt
My name is Bethany and I would like to take this time to thank those who have continued loyalty for the products and services I provide. I vow to continue to offer you the best of me by providing you personalized services, education and product recommendations that suit your individual needs.
I have been a Skin Therapist for almost three years and as most of you know, I cannot get enough education, yet there is so much more to learn. I am asked many questions, so I wanted to start this newsletter to introduce industry information to all of my clients in an organized format so everyone is informed. I hope you find it useful.
I was asked to be the spokesperson for MCC’s Business Management Entrepreneurship Program for the Spring Quarter. The marketing campaign began January 25th and includes T.V., radio, and direct mail. See my testimonial featuring Feroche Esthetics at http://www.mccneb.edu/businessandcommunity/successstories.asp
If you have any skin care questions, concerns, or subject ideas for future newsletters please do not hesitate to ask.
My name is Bethany and I would like to take this time to thank those who have continued loyalty for the products and services I provide. I vow to continue to offer you the best of me by providing you personalized services, education and product recommendations that suit your individual needs.
I have been a Skin Therapist for almost three years and as most of you know, I cannot get enough education, yet there is so much more to learn. I am asked many questions, so I wanted to start this newsletter to introduce industry information to all of my clients in an organized format so everyone is informed. I hope you find it useful.
I was asked to be the spokesperson for MCC’s Business Management Entrepreneurship Program for the Spring Quarter. The marketing campaign began January 25th and includes T.V., radio, and direct mail. See my testimonial featuring Feroche Esthetics at http://www.mccneb.edu/businessandcommunity/successstories.asp
If you have any skin care questions, concerns, or subject ideas for future newsletters please do not hesitate to ask.