Q: I am a skin therapist and owner of Feroche Esthetics in Omaha, NE. First question: I had a new client last week come in for face wax. During the consultation she told me her dermatologist had told her to use hydrogen peroxide on her face. She doesn't use cleanser or moisturizer just hydrogen peroxide. She has sensitized skin and dry flaking. Why would he recommend this?
A: While we can't speak on behalf of any dermatologists, my guess is that he's recommending Hydrogen Peroxide because it's a strong oxidant that may kill any bacteria that is causing mild acne. It may also be oxidizing the lipids that are part of the protective lipid layer that prevents dehydration of the skin. I definitely recommend you put her on a mild cleanser, not Hydrogen peroxide.
Q: Second question: recently I read an article on Dr. Oz Show.com on tanning. In this article he frowns against spray tanning to microparticles that can be inhaled, as well as, stating to avoid self tanners because the browning ingredients may damage the DNA in skin cells. Is this true of DHA? What do you think?
A: Hi Bethany, self tanners use an active agent called dihydroxyacetone (DHA). They react with amino acids in the skin to make a brown coloration. There is some validity to the concern of spray tanning if you're not protecting your mouth or nasal passages. However, there are no epidemiological studies linking DHA exposure and cancer risk. There are some studies showing mutagenic activity in some bacterial strains, which is probably where Dr. Oz is getting his info. ~Dr. C at IDI
Q: Is there such a thing as addiction to tanning?
A: Hi Theresa, yes, there have been studies linking tanning and addiction. Scientists have found that UV increases a gene called p53, which triggers tanning and also increases endorphins. Endorphins are the 'feel good' genes, which can lead to addiction. The more you feel good after a tanning session, the more you're likely to do it. ~Dr. Claudia at IDI
Q: I have a client that I'm currently treating - she is in her late 20's, normal/oily skin, very dull, hormonal acne. Currently I am doing microderm treatments and trying to treat the acne, yet give her a glowy complexion. Many acne products are drying and I'm having a difficult time finding the right combination. Any suggestions? Thank you!
A: When dealing with inflamed acne, there are better choices to use to treat her hormonal acne than microdermabrasion which can be a strong physical exfoliant for an inflamed condition. A better choice is enzymes and gentle hydroxy acids like lactic acid. Be sure to look for adult acne preparations like salicylic acid as well.
Q: What are the ingredients in soap? I want to tell my clients what to look for so they buy soap free products. Thanks.
A: Hi Katie, soap has residual alkalines in it with a PH of about 9 and the skin's natural pH is about 4-6 so the alkalinity strips the natural barrier from the skin. We suggest using a cleanser or cleansing bar known as syndets that have non-alkaline cleansing agents gentle enough for the skin. ~Dr. C at IDI
Q: I find it very difficult to treat my clients with severe hyper-pigmentation, what do you recommend?
A: Firstly, find the cause and eliminate where possible. Exfoliation with lactic acid is a great starting point and remember that clients should wear sunscreen daily! A course of treatments is essential and should include electrical equipment that will enhance product penetration such as galvanic iontophoresis or specific iontophoresis (See more microcurrent). Avoid hydroquinone as it safety has come under scrutiny and there is evidence that it may be toxic and a potential carcinogen which is why it is already banned in many countries. Using ingredients that brighten the skin and target the melanin production (such as oligopeptide-34) are crucial.
Q: I cannot get rid of my micocomedones. I am using JaneIredale Makeup. I am using daily micro (on a daily basis) + overnight clearning gel for weeks now no results. What else should I be trying?
A: Try a mild, cream-based, enzymatic exfoliant that uses Lactic Acid and Salicylic Acid to slough off dead skin cells, and sulfur to clear excess oil and congestion in the follicle.
Q: What are your thoughts on the product Cetaphil? And why? I have heard different opinions. I know a lot of dermatologists recommend it.
A: Hi Tammy, cetaphil is a basic, but not a results oriented cleanser.
Q: What is an organic sunscreen and is it better?
A: Hi Cecille, organic sunscreens are chemical sunscreens that absorb UV energy and dissipate it as heat. The name organic does not mean the same as it does when associated with an organic plant extract (like what you buy at whole foods). As far as better- if you have sensitive skin non-organic (or physical) sunscreens are better. Only blends of chemical suncreens will provide broad-spectrum, not individual chemical sunscreens. ~Dr. C
Q: I am finding many of my clients are having severe milia problems, especially older women that are using all day wear makeup, their dermatologists want to cut them out, but I recommend exfoliation, what would you recommend for treating this and effectively preventing them?
A: start by asking your client if they are using a product, cosmetic or skin care, that contains mineral oil. This is often the source of the problem, recommend your client start with a gentle daily exfoliation after make-up removal, then 2-3x/week, recommend an exfoliating mask with enzymes to remove dead cells and debris that can clog pores. The long lasting make-up is probably the culprit to the clog pores.
Q: I keep hearing the word nanotechnology, what is it?
A: Hi Michele, nanotechnology refers to substances that are incredibly small in size. When something is within the nanotechnology scale it has more surface area and is therefore more reactive. The properties of a substance change when they are micronized. The most common form of nanotechnology, incidentally perfectly safe to use, is when zinc oxide and titanium dioxide particles are made very translucent in physical sunscreens. ~Dr. C
Q: I have a client who recently had a sun spot pop up on her face. She is currently using skin resufacing cleanser, antioxidant hydramist, dynamic skin recovry, and power rich. I suggested the chroma white system along with a series of skin brightening treatments. She wants to wait till the fall to do it, but I was wondering if I should add the c-12 concentrate to her regimen?
A: Dynamic skin recovery may not be giving her enough coverage if she is not applying an adequeate amount of 1 teaspoon of it, or she can supplement it with a booster sunscreen. I do advise you start the client on C-12 concentrate now--to prevent further development of the pigmentation, but if she anticipates sun exposure throughout the summer, than yes, have her start the full regimen come fall.
Q: Hi! How do I treat dark circles under my client’s eyes?
A: Dark circles are caused by hyperpigmentation and deoxygenated blood vessels. Genetics also play a role. As skin therapists we can only treat dark circles due to hyperpigmentation with ingredients such as: retinol, licorice and niacinamide.
Q: What should I do with my large pores?
A: With regards to reducing your pore size, unfortunately that is not possible. The best way to reduce the appearance of large pores is to exfoliate with enzymes and hydroxy acids. It's also beneficial to use Clay based cleansers and masques to keep excess oil and debris from clogging the follicle causing the enlarged appearance.
Q: I have been hearing a lot lately about parabens - are they safe?
A: Absolutely. Many studies verify the efficacy and safety of this group of preservatives. Preservatives are essential to maintain the safety of products. For more information please read: http://www.cfsan.fda.gov/~dms/cos-para.html Also, under the European Cosmetics Regulations it is deemed safe.
Q: What is your insight on using (clients) the tear drop buff puff sponges to exfoliate the skin? It seems customers attest to using these.
A: The Buff Puff pads are too abrasive to use as a cleansing method of removing product and can harvest bacteria over time.
Q: What ingredients are a No No to use on Pregnant women?
A: You should always advise your client to consult with their physician. As a skin therapist, we can advise to avoid Vitamin A and Salycilic Acid.
Q: I also heard we should avoid the additives because the essential oils can be absorbed into the blood stream and is not good if they are breastfeeding...is this correct?
A: Yes Bethany, essential oils are known to be absorbed into the blood stream, so probably best to avoid use on clients who are either pregnant or breast feeding. But again, always advise they check with their physician.
Q: What is the next big thing with skincare that you can see on the horizon? What way is the industry going?
A: Hi Matt, from a science perspective, the field seems to be getting more and more sophisticated. The area of neurocosmetics also seem to be on the increase. Using technology to increase permeability for actives that target specific concerns are also growing. ~Dr. C
Q: How often can you do a series of peels safely?
A: Hi Cassie, that is a tough question to answer, as it really depends on the formulation and the potency of a particular exfoliant product. It also will vary dependent on the client's skin and what they're currently using at home. Peels can typically be performed in a series, spaced 7-10 days apart to achieve results, however, other peels should only be performed at 4 week intervals. We suggest to check with the product manufacturer for their recommendation.
And it is also important to do a thorough consultation prior to performing any peels, to identify any contraindications, such as if the client is undergoing laser treatment with a physician.
Q: Why do dermatologists prescribe acne medication for rosacea?
A: Hi Helen, good question! Firstly, Acne and rosacea are different skin conditions that have one important thing in common: inflammation. Doxycycline is an oral drug prescribed by dermatologists which has anti-inflammatory properties that alleviate symptoms in rosacea. ~Dr. Claudia at IDI
Q: Hi! What’s the difference between chemical and physical sunscreens, and can you give me specific ingredient examples?
A: Physical sunscreen ingredients (such as zinc oxide and titanium dioxide) reflect UVA and UVB rays, whereas chemical sunscreens absorb UVA/UVB rays lowering the energy level and releasing energy as heat – such as avobenzone (also known as Parsol 1789), oxybenzone and octocrylene.
Q: Hi Hannah! My 13 year old daughter has had problems with her skin..Im wondering if birth control will work to get her hormones on track?? Single Dad here...HELP!!!
A: Hi Ruben, we suggest you speak with your physician regarding this, but we can tell you that yes, birth control pills can regulate hormones, however, we do not recommend using this medication for this reason, without consulting with your physician.
Recent Posts
Thursday, May 20, 2010
Monday, May 3, 2010
May's Special
Refer a friend and receive a complimentary Eco-fin hand or foot treatment.
Eco-fin is a great natural, petroleum-free alternative to paraffin. Treatments are 100% disposable and biodegradable. Eco-fin is a rich blend of palm, soy, jojoba and organic coconut oils, shea butter, vitamin E and essential oils. With heat, it delivers rich moisturizers that leave the skin soft and supple.
Eco-fin is a great natural, petroleum-free alternative to paraffin. Treatments are 100% disposable and biodegradable. Eco-fin is a rich blend of palm, soy, jojoba and organic coconut oils, shea butter, vitamin E and essential oils. With heat, it delivers rich moisturizers that leave the skin soft and supple.
Mexican Sunburn Remedy
There are many sunburn remedies out there. Most of them include cool compress, moisturizer or aloe and an anti-inflammatory. Recently, a friend of mine got back from a trip to Cancun with her family. During this trip she was sunburned pretty badly (busy swimming with the dolphins). She told me how the locals had a sunburn remedy. She tried it and found that it relieved the burn and she hardly had any peeling. You will need:
¼ cup of white vinegar
¼ cup of lime juice (fresh squeezed)
1 teaspoon of salt
Combine vinegar, fresh lime juice and salt. Using soft cotton balls dip in vinegar mixture then squeeze out the excess back into the cup. Lightly, but thoroughly, apply to sunburned area. Leave on overnight. However, wash off all vinegar mixture before exposing skin to sunlight or the lime juice will cause the skin to burn and blacken in the sunlight.
¼ cup of white vinegar
¼ cup of lime juice (fresh squeezed)
1 teaspoon of salt
Combine vinegar, fresh lime juice and salt. Using soft cotton balls dip in vinegar mixture then squeeze out the excess back into the cup. Lightly, but thoroughly, apply to sunburned area. Leave on overnight. However, wash off all vinegar mixture before exposing skin to sunlight or the lime juice will cause the skin to burn and blacken in the sunlight.
Why Sunscreen Is Important
80 to 85 percent of our aging is caused by the rays of the sun. Daily sunscreen is imperative for healthy skin. Many of you know how passionate I am about recommending sunscreen to protect the skin from ultraviolet (UV) rays. I stress this because sun exposure leads not only to skin cancer, but to aging, hyperpigmentation, capillary damage, free radical damage, collagen and elastin deterioration and a repressed immune system.
Over one million new cases of skin cancer are diagnosed every year. Even more staggering is the fact that one in five Americans will develop skin cancer, and 90% of these cancers will be the result of exposure to UV radiation from the sun and/or tanning beds. Reported cases has more than doubled in the past 20 years and over 2,000 people die from skin cancer each year in the United Kingdom. This globally expansive issue reinforces the belief that the best defense is to limit daylight exposure and protect skin with sunscreen at all times. Avoid exposure to the sun during peak hours, when UV exposure is highest. This is usually between 10 A.M. and 3 P.M.
UVA rays (the aging rays) are the longest rays in the spectrum, and they penetrate deeper into the skin. UVA rays are responsible for causing damage at the cellular level, making them responsible for most skin cancers and the cause of the signs of aging in the form of wrinkles and pigment spots. UVB rays (the burning rays) are shorter than UVA rays, and are responsible for the actual “burn” or “tan” response in skin. Both UVA and UVB rays can cause cancer, so wearing and SPF that shields skin against both (broad spectrum) is critical.
UV rays generate free radicals (molecules that have gained or lost and electron) that wreak havoc on cellular material. They are capable of altering not only the DNA (genetic material of all living cells) but may also affect membranes surrounding skin cells, destroy or alter enzymes and proteins required for cellular metabolism and affect amino acids (the building blocks of proteins). Free radicals can ultimately result in the formation of sun-induced skin cancers.
Fortunately, our bodies are constantly trying to repair the damage of this vicious free radical assault. While our body’s defense system is repairing damaged sites, our cells are releasing the by-products of this assault and repair process. The skin’s inflammatory response may be seen initially as erythema (redness of the skin) which results from dilation of blood vessels in the dermis as a response to the cell damage and repair process. Erythema generally appears two to six hours after exposure to daylight or tanning; the degree of redness is an indication of damage to the skin inflicted by the sun. Erythema is also used as a measure of the effectiveness of a sunscreen to absorb UVB rays and is measured by its sun protection factor (SPF). Factors affecting erythema include the amount of pigmentation in the skin, the ease of burning of the individual and the skin’s resistance to tanning.
Sunscreens work by absorbing damaging UV rays (chemical sunscreens) or by reflecting and scattering UV rays (physical sunscreens). Physical sunscreens (such as Titanium Dioxide and Zinc Oxide) have increased in popularity as consumers grow more concerned about the potential irritancy factor of chemical sunscreens. With this increase in popularity has also come a focus on improving the technology of these physical sunscreens.
The SPF represents the ability of a sunscreen to delay sun-induced burning or erythema. It is important to understand that, even though you may be using a sunscreen, some UVB rays will still penetrate through skin. For example, an SPF 2 product protects your skin from 50% of the UVB rays, so you can stay in the sun twice as long as you would be able to without protection. An SPF 8 blocks 87.5% of the rays, leaving 12.5% to penetrate and burn your skin. An SPF 15 blocks 93.3% of UVB rays. And finally, an SPF 30 blocks 96.6% of UVB rays.
When you use a sunscreen, make sure you apply an adequate amount to ensure you are getting the desired SPF. That’s generally about one teaspoon for the face and a full ounce (approximately 1/8 cup) for complete body coverage. Also, reapply sunscreen whenever you swim, exercise or sweat profusely.
What Happens to the Skin?
Skin without sunscreen
• Collagen and elastin breakdown, leading to premature aging.
• DNA damage caused by free radicals.
• Hypo-and hyperpigmentation
Generic over-the-counter sunscreen
• Skin is protected from UV rays but is still susceptible to free radical damage.
• Formulas are often comedogenic (clogs pores), contain artificial ingredients and fragrances, and feel uncomfortable on skin.
• Often do not contain ingredients that are beneficial to the health of skin or offer treatment for specific skin conditions.
Dermalogica Solar Defense System featuring UV Smart Booster Technology
• Skin is protected against UVA rays, UVB rays and free radical damage.
• Non-comedogenic formulas are free of artificial fragrance and color, and are more like skin treatment products with optimal feel and performance.
• State-of-the-art ingredients treat each skin condition, providing optimal skin care benefits.
Over one million new cases of skin cancer are diagnosed every year. Even more staggering is the fact that one in five Americans will develop skin cancer, and 90% of these cancers will be the result of exposure to UV radiation from the sun and/or tanning beds. Reported cases has more than doubled in the past 20 years and over 2,000 people die from skin cancer each year in the United Kingdom. This globally expansive issue reinforces the belief that the best defense is to limit daylight exposure and protect skin with sunscreen at all times. Avoid exposure to the sun during peak hours, when UV exposure is highest. This is usually between 10 A.M. and 3 P.M.
UVA rays (the aging rays) are the longest rays in the spectrum, and they penetrate deeper into the skin. UVA rays are responsible for causing damage at the cellular level, making them responsible for most skin cancers and the cause of the signs of aging in the form of wrinkles and pigment spots. UVB rays (the burning rays) are shorter than UVA rays, and are responsible for the actual “burn” or “tan” response in skin. Both UVA and UVB rays can cause cancer, so wearing and SPF that shields skin against both (broad spectrum) is critical.
UV rays generate free radicals (molecules that have gained or lost and electron) that wreak havoc on cellular material. They are capable of altering not only the DNA (genetic material of all living cells) but may also affect membranes surrounding skin cells, destroy or alter enzymes and proteins required for cellular metabolism and affect amino acids (the building blocks of proteins). Free radicals can ultimately result in the formation of sun-induced skin cancers.
Fortunately, our bodies are constantly trying to repair the damage of this vicious free radical assault. While our body’s defense system is repairing damaged sites, our cells are releasing the by-products of this assault and repair process. The skin’s inflammatory response may be seen initially as erythema (redness of the skin) which results from dilation of blood vessels in the dermis as a response to the cell damage and repair process. Erythema generally appears two to six hours after exposure to daylight or tanning; the degree of redness is an indication of damage to the skin inflicted by the sun. Erythema is also used as a measure of the effectiveness of a sunscreen to absorb UVB rays and is measured by its sun protection factor (SPF). Factors affecting erythema include the amount of pigmentation in the skin, the ease of burning of the individual and the skin’s resistance to tanning.
Sunscreens work by absorbing damaging UV rays (chemical sunscreens) or by reflecting and scattering UV rays (physical sunscreens). Physical sunscreens (such as Titanium Dioxide and Zinc Oxide) have increased in popularity as consumers grow more concerned about the potential irritancy factor of chemical sunscreens. With this increase in popularity has also come a focus on improving the technology of these physical sunscreens.
The SPF represents the ability of a sunscreen to delay sun-induced burning or erythema. It is important to understand that, even though you may be using a sunscreen, some UVB rays will still penetrate through skin. For example, an SPF 2 product protects your skin from 50% of the UVB rays, so you can stay in the sun twice as long as you would be able to without protection. An SPF 8 blocks 87.5% of the rays, leaving 12.5% to penetrate and burn your skin. An SPF 15 blocks 93.3% of UVB rays. And finally, an SPF 30 blocks 96.6% of UVB rays.
When you use a sunscreen, make sure you apply an adequate amount to ensure you are getting the desired SPF. That’s generally about one teaspoon for the face and a full ounce (approximately 1/8 cup) for complete body coverage. Also, reapply sunscreen whenever you swim, exercise or sweat profusely.
What Happens to the Skin?
Skin without sunscreen
• Collagen and elastin breakdown, leading to premature aging.
• DNA damage caused by free radicals.
• Hypo-and hyperpigmentation
Generic over-the-counter sunscreen
• Skin is protected from UV rays but is still susceptible to free radical damage.
• Formulas are often comedogenic (clogs pores), contain artificial ingredients and fragrances, and feel uncomfortable on skin.
• Often do not contain ingredients that are beneficial to the health of skin or offer treatment for specific skin conditions.
Dermalogica Solar Defense System featuring UV Smart Booster Technology
• Skin is protected against UVA rays, UVB rays and free radical damage.
• Non-comedogenic formulas are free of artificial fragrance and color, and are more like skin treatment products with optimal feel and performance.
• State-of-the-art ingredients treat each skin condition, providing optimal skin care benefits.